Copyright

© 2016 by Nikki Van De Car

Photographs © 2016 by Steve Legato

Published by Running Press,

An Imprint of Perseus Books, LLC.,

A Subsidiary of Hachette Book Group, Inc.

All rights reserved under the Pan-American and International

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ISBN 978-0-7624-6191-2

Library of Congress Control Number: 2016952172

E-book ISBN 978-0-7624-6192-9

Edited by Shannon Lee Connors

Tech edited by Therese Chynoweth

Designed by Susan Van Horn

Illustrations by Trina Dalziel

Prop styling by Kristi Hunter

Garments modeled by Shannon Lee Connors, Kristi Hunter, Amelia Legato, Caitlin Moore, Rucha Phadtare, and Bailey Watro

Typography: Naive, Naive Line Sans, Artisania, and Brandon

Running Press Book Publishers

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E3-20170306-JV-NF

INTRODUCTION

I never go anywhere without my yarn. I take it with me to the movies, to the doctor’s office, to my daughter’s karate class. I knit while I’m waiting for the pasta water to boil, and I crochet while sitting in the sunshine with my cat. And for those twenty or ten or even five minutes that I am able to squeeze out of my day, I find peace.

The marvelous thing about crafting with yarn is that it’s so portable—most of these projects are small enough to fit comfortably in your purse, ready to pull out at a moment’s notice. Standing in line? Trying to center yourself while riding the train home from work? You have everything you need at your fingertips.

William Morris once said, “A good way to rid one’s self of a sense of discomfort is to do something. That uneasy, dissatisfied feeling is actual force vibrating out of order; it may be turned to practical account by giving proper expression to its creative character.” It’s true. If I’m upset or frustrated or even just not quite sure how I’m feeling, all I need is a few moments to sit and feel the soft, beautiful yarn moving through my fingers, to observe the tactile pleasures of a craft that engages the senses—touch, of course, but also sight as I watch my work grow before my eyes. Sometimes I deliberately choose yarn that smells sheepy, and I think about the Shetland or Leicester sheep, roaming the Hebrides, whose wool I am holding now. And I hear the click-click-click of the needles, rhythmic and steady as breathing.

The book is divided into three sections—Color, Texture, and Structure—and each of these sections shines a light on that specific aspect of knitting or crochet. Of course, in reality, a knitter or crocheter is always dancing and trading back and forth among all three, all the time. You can’t have a knitted or crocheted anything that doesn’t play with color, texture, and structure all at once. But the patterns in these sections tend to focus on one thing or another—stripes and saturation in Color, yarn and stitch choice in Texture, gauge and construction in Structure. What will you choose to focus on today?

Yarn work is a craft that asks us to be fully present, to engage and lose ourselves in creating something that is both beautiful and functional. The act of knitting and crocheting is deeply satisfying in its own right—but to wind up with something lovely and handmade at the end of it is what crafting is all about.

Part One

COLOR

adho mukha

(CROCHETED SCARF)

Scarves are often chosen as first projects for a beginning knitter or crocheter, and it’s easy to see why. They’re very simple, they are worked back and forth, there is no shaping, and they are easy to wear and appreciate.

But scarves take a long time, and someone who is just learning usually wants to see some results, to finish something and feel that sense of accomplishment. And while doing the exact same thing over and over again can feel very meditative, eventually it feels very boring. It’s a fine line.

This triangular scarf, named after the “downward dog” yoga pose, is still very simple, but the occasional increase on the first half and decrease on the second half will keep you engaged, while also teaching you something new. It’s a great project to learn on. When it is worked in a color gradient, as shown here, the hues shift almost imperceptibly. As your scarf grows, your understanding of crochet will grow with it.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

7¼ inches (18.5 cm) wide and 41½ inches (105.5 cm) long.

MATERIALS

400 yards (366 meters) fingering weight wool yarn (shown in A Hundred Ravens Iachos Mini-Skein Gradient, in color Morgan’s Frost)

Size F-5 (3.75 mm) crochet hook

Safety pin

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

28 sts and 28 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in single crochet (see here).

PATTERN

Foundation ch: Ch 3.

Next row: Begin in second ch from hook, sc in each ch, ch 1, and turn—2 sts.

Next row: Skip turning ch, 2 sc, ch 1, and turn.

Increase row: Skip turning ch, 2 sc into first st, sc to end, ch 1, and turn—3 sts.

Place safety pin on this side of the fabric, as you will always increase or decrease with the safety pin facing you.

*Work 3 rows even.

Increase row: 2 sc into first st, sc to end, ch 1, and turn—1 st increased.

Repeat from * until there are 50 sts.

Work 3 rows even.

**Decrease row: Sc2tog, sc to end, ch 1, and turn—1 st decreased.

Work 1 row even.

Repeat from ** until 2 sts remain. Sc2tog, and fasten off.

finishing:

Weave in all ends using tapestry needle. Finish the piece by blocking it, as instructed on here.

leafly (CROCHETED NECKLACE)

My friend Anna Noyes made this garland as we sat together on the rubber floor of the neighborhood playground while our children ran around in the sunshine. I sketched out what I wanted her to do and gave her a crochet hook and some yarn. But when it was finished, the result was not the rigid necklace I had envisioned. It’s more fluid, because as Anna crocheted and I knit, we chatted about our work, and in that flow the necklace evolved.

It is as much Anna’s design as mine, and I love it. This is creativity—the excitement of exchanging ideas and of letting your ideas change with the push and pull of someone else’s. When the necklace is worn, the green leaves nestled on the chest represent the heart chakra, the chakra of healing and, of course, relationships. Let the whimsy of this necklace inspire you to let yourself be moved by others, like leaves fluttering in the breeze.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

30 inches (76 cm) long.

MATERIALS

75 yards (69 meters) fingering weight yarn (shown in Debbie Bliss Rialto 4-ply in colors Light Green [MC], Duck Egg [CC1], and Cream [CC2])

Size E-4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook

Tapestry needle

PATTERN

Foundation ch: Using MC, ch 3.

Row 1: Begin in second ch from hook, sc in each st across, ch 1, and turn—2 sts.

Row 2: Skip turning ch, 2 sc in each st, ch 1, and turn—4 sts.

Row 3: Skip turning ch, sc across, ch 1, and turn.

Row 4: Skip turning ch, 2 sc into first st, sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc into last st, ch 1, and turn—6 sts.

Row 5: Skip turning ch, sc across, ch 1, and turn.

Row 6: Skip turning ch, sc2tog, sc in each of next 2 sts, sc2tog, ch 1, and turn—4 sts remain.

Row 7: Skip turning ch, sc2tog twice, ch 1, and turn—2 sts remain.

Row 8: Skip turning ch, sc2tog—1 st remains.

*Insert the hook into the next visible hole you find along the center of your leaf, yarn over and pull up a loop, and pull it through the loop on your hook, creating a slip stitch; repeat from * down the center of your leaf until you run out of holes.

To finish off, make this final loop on your hook large enough to fit your entire ball of yarn and any previous leaves through it. Pull it tight!

Measure yarn 5 inches (12.5 cm) from the base of the previous leaf, making sure yarn is relaxed. Begin your next leaf there with the foundation chain.

When your string measures 30 inches (76 cm) and has 7 leaves, cut the yarn, leaving an 8-inch (20.5 cm) long tail, and fasten off.

Make one more string using MC, then make 1 garland of each CC, for a total of 4.

finishing:

To connect the garlands into one necklace, lay them flat, offsetting the leaves. Gather all the ends together and tie them in a square knot at the base of your two outside leaves. Weave in all ends using tapestry needle.

mesmer (KNITTED VEST)

This striking, flowing vest is made using two different balls of self-striping yarn, and alternating them so that the colors from each ball play with those of the other in surprising ways. It’s extremely easy to knit, being nothing but a giant Stockinette rectangle with holes, but there’s nothing dull about it. Watching as one color blends into the next, and then jumps out in startling contrast, keeps the mind engaged, even mesmerized.

As your conscious thoughts, your to-do list, your worries drift away, watch what comes up instead—how will one random thought bleed into the next? What will you learn about yourself?

Sizes: Small (medium, large, extra-large). Shown in medium.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Back width, between armholes: 11½ (11½, 12½, 12½) inches (29 [29, 31.5, 31.5] cm).

Length: 21¾ (23, 24¼, 25½) inches (55 [58.5, 61.5, 65] cm).

MATERIALS

1,080 (1,192, 1,327, 1,450) yards (987 [1,090, 1,213, 1,326] meters) sport weight yarn (shown in Noro Taiyo Sport, in colors Earthtones/Yellow/Olive [MC], 2 [2, 2, 3] balls, and Blues/Greens/Rust/Red [CC], 2 balls, each size)

Size US 7 (4.5 mm) needles

Stitch markers

Stitch holders

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

18 sts and 29 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in St st (see here).

PATTERN

For a helpful diagram, see here.

right side

Using MC, cast on 100 (106, 112, 118) sts.

Next row: K8, pm, knit to last 8 sts, pm, knit to end.

Knit 3 rows, slipping markers as you come to them.

Change to CC. Knit 4 rows.

Change to MC. Knit 4 rows.

Change to CC. Knit 4 rows.

Change to MC.

Row 1 (RS): Knit.

Row 2 (WS): Knit to marker, sl m, purl to next marker, sl m, knit to end.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 once more.

*Change to CC. Work rows 1 and 2 two more times.

Change to MC. Work rows 1 and 2 two more times.

Repeat from * until there are 30 (32, 34, 36) Stockinette stripes, not including garter border at the bottom edge, and end with a WS row.

right armhole:

Set-up row (RS): Using MC, k60 (60, 64, 64) stitches, pm for armhole, knit to end.

*Next row (WS): Knit to marker, sl m, purl to armhole marker, sl m, knit to end.

Next row (RS): Knit.

Repeat from * 2 more times, then repeat WS row once more, maintaining stripe pattern, and end with a WS row.

Next row (RS): Using MC, k17 (17, 19, 19), bind off 39 (39, 41, 41) sts, knit to end—44 (50, 52, 58) sts remain for body, and 17 (17, 19, 19) sts remain for shoulder. Cut CC, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail. Place shoulder sts on holder.

*Next row (WS): Knit to marker, sl m, purl to marker, knit to end.

Next row (RS): Knit.

Repeat from * 4 more times, then repeat WS row once more, maintaining stripe pattern, and joining CC at armhole edge.

Cut both colors, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail for each color. Place sts on holder.

Return held shoulder sts to needles. With WS facing, attach MC to top of armhole and knit to end. Knit 2 more rows.

Knit 12 rows, maintaining stripe pattern, and joining CC at armhole edge.

Next row (RS): Using CC, k17 (17, 19, 19), using the backward loop method (see here), cast on 39 (39, 41, 41) stitches, knit held side sts—100 (106, 112, 118) sts.

*Next row (WS): Knit to marker, sl m, purl to armhole marker, sl m, knit to end.

Next row: Knit.

Repeat from * 2 more times, then repeat WS row once more, maintaining stripe pattern.

back:

Leaving armhole marker in place, work rows 1 and 2 as follows:

*Row 1: Knit.

Row 2: Knit to first marker, sl m, purl to last marker, sl m, knit to end.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 once more.

Change to MC. Work rows 1 and 2 two more times.

Repeat from * until there are 19 (19, 21, 21) Stockinette stripes after the right armhole.

left armhole:

Set-up row (RS): Using MC, knit.

*Next row (WS): Knit to first marker, sl m, purl to armhole marker, sl m, knit to end.

Next row (RS): Knit.

Repeat from * 2 more times, then repeat WS row once more, maintaining stripe pattern.

Next row (RS): Using MC, k17 (17, 19, 19), bind off 39 (39, 41, 41) sts, knit to end—44 (50, 52, 58) sts remain for body, and 17 (17, 19, 19) sts remain for shoulder. Cut CC, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail. Place shoulder sts on holder.

*Next row (WS): Knit to marker, sl m, purl to marker, sl m, knit to end.

Next row (RS): Knit.

Repeat from * 4 more times, then repeat WS row once more, maintaining stripe pattern, and joining CC at armhole edge.

Cut both colors, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail for each color. Place sts on holder.

Return held shoulder sts to needles. With WS facing, attach MC at top of armhole and knit to end. Knit 2 more rows.

Knit 12 rows, maintaining stripe pattern, and joining CC at armhole edge.

Next row (RS): Using CC, k17 (17, 19, 19), using the backward loop method (see here), cast on 39 (39, 41, 41) stitches, knit held side sts—100 (106, 112, 118) sts.

*Next row (WS): Knit to first marker, sl m, purl to armhole marker, sl m, knit to end.

Next row (RS): Knit.

Repeat from * 2 more times, then repeat WS row once more, maintaining stripe pattern.

left side:

Removing armhole marker on first row, work rows 1 and 2 as follows:

*Row 1 (RS): Knit.

Row 2 (WS): Knit to marker, sl m, purl to next marker, sl m, knit to end.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 once more.

Change to MC. Work rows 1 and 2 two more times.

Repeat from * until there are 30 (32, 34, 36) Stockinette stripes after the left armhole garter band.

Change to CC. Knit 4 rows.

Change to MC. Knit 4 rows.

Change to CC. Knit 4 rows.

Change to MC. Knit 3 rows.

Using MC, bind off all sts knitwise.

finishing:

Weave in all ends using tapestry needle. Block to measurements, as explained on here.

TIPS & MEDITATIONS

CASTING ON…

As with everything in life, there are so many ways to start and so many ways to end. There are at least a dozen different ways to cast on for a knitting project, and each one has its ideal use. Don’t worry, I’m not going to explain them all here! But having a good cast-on method will give you the foundation you need to grow a beautiful finished object.

CHAINING

This is for the crocheters out there, but knitters take note, because it may come in useful one day. Make a slipknot and slide it onto your hook. Holding your hook in your dominant hand, wrap the yarn around by going behind the hook and over the front. The yarn should rest in the crook of the hook. This is a yarnover. Use the hook to pull your yarn through the slipknot, letting it drop off the hook. Yarn over, and pull through again. The trick here is to not pull too tightly—tug just hard enough so that your loops fall off the hook, watching that they remain even in size.

LONG-TAIL

This is the cast-on I use most often. If I don’t specify which kind of cast-on to use in the pattern, this is the one I mean. Measure your yarn until you have a length that is approximately three times the length of your first row or round (if you’re not sure, use more than you think you need—you don’t want to have to cast on twice). Make a slipknot and insert a knitting needle into the loop. *Hold the needle in your dominant hand. Loop the long tail of yarn around your nondominant thumb and the strand from the ball around your nondominant index finger. Keep your fingers stretched out, as if you’re pretending to shoot a gun. Slip the needle under the front of the loop around your thumb, then behind the loop around your index finger, then drop the thumb loop. Pull it snug, but not too tight. Repeat from * until you’ve cast on enough stitches.

BACKWARD LOOP

Place your left index finger behind the yarn and make a little loop with the strand coming from the ball in front. Insert the tip of the right needle into the loop. Pull tight. Repeat until you’ve cast on enough stitches.

AND BINDING OFF

And now, let’s talk about how to finish. When we end a project, how do we ensure that it will remain secure? Will the bind-off have enough give? Will it be tight enough? There are just as many ways to end a knitting project as there are to start one. (Crocheters, you’re lucky—all you have to do is tie off!) Here are the two knitting bind-off methods I use most often.

STANDARD

This is the bind-off method to use in a pattern when I haven’t specified. Knit two stitches. *Insert your left needle into the first stitch on your right needle (the stitch that does not have a strand of yarn hanging off it). Lift this stitch over the stitch in front of it, and over the tip of your right needle. One stitch remains on your right needle. Knit one stitch from the left needle, and repeat from * until there are no stitches remaining on your left needle, and only one stitch remains on your right needle. Cut the yarn and draw it through this remaining stitch. Pull tight. This method is very simple—though there is a bit of a trick to it. You don’t want to pull too tight, so knit those stitches onto your right needle loosely, and don’t pull too hard with the yarn when you’re lifting the stitch over. If you’re nervous, go up a needle size when you’re binding off, just in case.

KNIT TWO TOGETHER

This bind-off is nice and stretchy, so there’s no need to go up a needle size here. Knit two, then slip those two stitches from the right needle back to the left, and knit them together. Knit one, slip two stitches from the right needle to the left, knit them together, and so on, until just one stitch remains. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitch.

vishuddha (CROCHETED COWL)

The blue color of this cowl calls to mind Vishuddha, the fifth chakra, the throat chakra—the chakra of communication and clarity, and also of tranquility and peace. What does communication have to do with tranquility? How does it feel to be understood, to have shared who you really are? As you crochet, think about the interaction between peace and the clear exchange of ideas.

This cowl is worked in a very simple stitch—just the one stitch—round and round. It is as clear as can be, and it uses an oversize hook to create an airy, webbed effect, allowing the throat chakra’s interplay of peace and communication to flow freely.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

40 inches (101.5 cm) circumference and 8¼ inches (21 cm) long.

MATERIALS

194 yards (177 meters) DK weight yarn in MC (shown in Sweet Georgia Yarns Superwash DK, in color Mist, 1 skein); 10 yards (9 meters) DK weight yarn in CC (shown in Sweet Georgia Yarns Superwash DK, in color Mink, 1 skein)

Size K-10½ (6.5 mm) crochet hook

Safety pin

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

7¾ sts and 7 rnds = 4 inches (10 cm) in double crochet, blocked (see here).

PATTERN

Foundation ch: Using MC, ch 78, making sure your chain is nice and loose. Join with a sl st in the first ch to join in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. Place a safety pin to mark end of rnd.

Rnd 1: Ch 2, dc in each st around, join with a sl st in top of beginning ch.

Repeat rnd 1 until cowl measures 8 inches (20.5 cm), or yarn is almost all used up. Fasten off.

edging:

Using CC, work sc in each st across top of cowl, join with a sl st in first sc. Fasten off.

Repeat edging around bottom of cowl.

finishing:

Weave in all ends with tapestry needle. Block, as instructed on here.

earth laughs (CROCHETED FLOWERS)

Earth is covered in flowers. They crop up everywhere, from the cracks in the sidewalk to the abandoned lot down the street. They bring joy wherever they appear. Here are a few ways to crochet flowers, just enough to get you started. Once you’re familiar with these principles, make up your own! Start with a circle and create petals using the techniques below. Play with color, with the number of petals, with their size. Make a daisy chain or a bunting, or sew the flowers onto a cloche or a head scarf. Scatter flowers around your home and give bouquets to friends.

MATERIALS

30 yards (27.5 meters) of yarn (shown in various weights and colors)

Crochet hook in size appropriate to the yarn

Tapestry needle

Button (optional)

PATTERN

simple flower:

Foundation ring: Ch 3, join in the rnd with a slip st in first ch, ch 1.

Rnd 1: Work 9 sc around ring, ch 1—9 sts.

Rnd 2: Work 3 sc in each st around, ch 1—27 sts.

Rnd 3: Work 2 sc in next st, *ch 2, skip next 2 sts, work 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to last 2 sts, ch 2, skip next 2 sts, join with a sl st in beginning ch, ch 1—18 sc and 9 ch-sp.

Rnd 4: 2 sc, *work 5 tr in ch-2 sp, 2 sc; repeat from * around, join with a sl st in beginning ch. Fasten off.

Weave in ends using tapestry needle.

rolled flower:

Foundation ch: Ch 49.

Row 1: Begin in second ch from hook, work sc across, turn—48 sts.

Row 2: *Ch 3, skip 3 sts, sc in next st; repeat from * to end, turn—12 sc and 12 ch-sp.

Row 3: Ch 1, *work (sc, dc, 5 tr, dc, sc) in ch-3 sp, sl st in next st; repeat from * to end—120 sts.

Fasten off and cut yarn, leaving a long tail.

Thread tail into tapestry needle. Wind the base of the first few petals in a tight circle and use the tapestry needle to sew them in place. Continue winding petals, widening the circle as you go, creating more layers and stitching them in place.

Weave in ends with tapestry needle. Sew a button in center if desired.

multicolored flower:

Foundation ring: Using MC, ch 3, join in the rnd with a sl st in the first ch, ch 1.

Rnd 1: Work 9 sc around ring, ch 1—9 sts.

Rnd 2: Sc in each st around, ch 1.

Rnd 3: Work 3 sc in each st around, join with a sl st in beginning ch, enlarge the loop on hook and draw the ball of yarn through to fasten off. Do not cut yarn.

Rnd 4: Pull through a loop of CC in next st, ch 3 and dc in same st, *ch 2, skip next st, work 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around, ch 2, join with a sl st in top of first dc. Fasten off CC.

Rnd 5: Pull through a loop of MC, *work 1 sc between 2 dc, work 3 tr in ch-2 sp; repeat from * around, join with a sl st in first st. Fasten off.

finishing:

Weave in ends with tapestry needle.

yoga or not (KNITTED SOCKS)

Sizes: Small (large). Shown in small.

The colors of this self-striping yarn flow into one another as one asana flows into the next in yoga. The color changes happen so subtly you almost can’t see them, but it’s fascinating to watch the hues begin to blend and shift as you knit.

There are two options here: toeless socks for yoga on a chilly day (or a pedicure on a chilly day—both are equally wonderful), and regular, toasty-toes socks for when you just want to curl up. If you’re new to knitting socks, don’t worry. They’re actually very simple, and while the heel might seem intimidating, it’s actually the most fun of all, once you get the hang of it.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Foot circumference: 7½ (8) inches (19 [20.5] cm).

MATERIALS

252 (266) yards (230 [243] meters) sock yarn (shown in Scheepjeswol Invicta Colour, in color Brown/Teal/Curry/Turquoise, 1 ball each size for full socks)

179 (193) yards (163 [176] meters) sock yarn for yoga socks

Size US 2 (2.75 mm) dpns or 32-inch (80 cm) long circular needle

2 point protectors (optional)

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

32 sts and 42 rnds = 4 inches (10 cm) in St st (see here).

PATTERN

Cast on 60 (64) sts. Pm and join to work in the rnd, taking care not to twist sts.

Rnd 1: *K2, p2; repeat from * around.

Repeat rnd 1 until rib measures 1½ inches (4 cm).

Continue in St st for 6 inches (15 cm).

heel:

Next rnd: K30 (32) sts. Leave these sts on either the cable of your long circular needles or a single dpn. (If you’re nervous about the sts falling off your dpn, you can use point protectors.) Work back and forth over the remaining 30 (32) sts for the heel as follows.

Short row 1 (RS): K29 (31), bring yarn to front, slip next st from left needle to right needle, turn work and bring yarn to WS, wrapping yarn around the st.

Short row 2 (WS): Slip 1 to right needle, purl to last st, bring yarn to back, slip last st, turn work.

Short row 3: Slip 1 to right needle, bring yarn to back, knit to 1 st before wrapped st, wrap and turn this st as above.

Short row 4: Slip 1 to right needle, purl to 1 st before wrapped st, bring yarn to back, slip next st, bring yarn to front, wrapping yarn around the st, and turn.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until you have 12 sts left in work at the center of the heel.

Short row 5: Knit to wrapped st, with right needle pick up the wrap and place it on left needle, knit it together with the st, wrap next st (it will now have 2 wraps) and turn.

Short row 6: Slip double-wrapped st, purl to next wrapped st on other end, with right needle, pick up wrap and purl it together with the st it wraps, wrap next st (it will now have 2 wraps), and turn.

Short row 7: Slip double-wrapped st, knit to double-wrapped st on other end, with right needle, pick up both wraps and knit them together with the st they wrap, wrap next st and turn.

Short row 8: Slip double-wrapped st, purl to double-wrapped st on the other end, with right needle, pick up both wraps and purl them together with st they wrap, wrap next st and turn.

Repeat short rows 7 and 8 until 1 double-wrapped st remains on each end.

Next row (RS): Knit to double-wrapped st, knit both wraps together with the st they wrap, knit across the held 30 (32) st for top of foot, work final double-wrapped st together with its wraps, then continue working in the rnd.

yoga-toes option:

Work even in St st until your sock is 1½ inches (4 cm) shorter than the length measured from the back of your heel to the ball of your foot.

Next rnd: *K2, p2; repeat from * around.

Repeat last rnd until rib measures 1½ inches (4 cm).

Bind off all sts loosely in rib.

warm-toes option:

Work even in St st until your sock is 1½ inches (4 cm) shorter than the length measured from the back of your heel to the tip of your big toe.

Decrease rnd: K1, ssk, k24 (26), k2tog, pm, k2, ssk, k24 (26), k2tog, pm, k1—56 (60) sts remain.

Next rnd: Knit.

Decrease rnd: K1, ssk, knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sl m, k2, ssk, knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sl m, k1—4 sts decreased.

Repeat last 2 rnds 6 (7) times more—28 sts remain.

Close the toe using Kitchener st as follows:

Place the top of the toe on one needle and the bottom of the toe on a second needle. Hold these two needles parallel, with the right sides facing out and the yarn at the right end of the back needle. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and thread into tapestry needle.

Insert the tapestry needle purlwise through the first stitch on the front needle, and pull the yarn through the stitch, but leave the stitch on the front needle. Draw the yarn under the front needle and insert the tapestry needle knitwise through the first stitch on the back needle. Leave this stitch on the back needle, and pull the yarn through both stitches.

*Insert tapestry needle knitwise through the first stitch on the front needle and slip the stitch off the needle. Insert tapestry needle purlwise through the next stitch on front needle. Leave this stitch on the front needle, and pull yarn through both stitches. Insert tapestry needle purlwise through first stitch on back needle, and slip the stitch off the needle. Insert tapestry needle knitwise through the next stitch on back needle. Leave this stitch on the back needle, and pull yarn through both stitches.

Repeat from * until all the stitches have been joined.

finishing (both options):

Weave in all ends with tapestry needle.

svadhisthana (KNITTED LAP BLANKET)

This blanket is meant to stimulate and provide comfort for the root (Muladhara) and sacral (Svadhisthana) chakras—though, incidentally, it is a perfect size for a baby blanket, should the need to make one of those ever come up.

The brightness and warm energy of the orange and red chakras spark our passions as well as our ability to stay grounded. They connect us with the earth and with our deepest selves. The pattern of squares on the blanket calls to mind stone tiles or parquet, reminding us that the floor beneath us holds us up, that it is always supporting us, regardless of our conscious awareness. So, too, do our root and sacral chakras hold and support us, keep us grounded, and allow us to soar.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

29 inches (73.5 cm) wide and 28 inches (71 cm) long.

MATERIALS

556 yards (508 meters) worsted weight yarn (shown in Misti International Alpaca Qolla Worsted, in color Maria, 3 hanks)

Size US 10½ (6.5 mm) needles, or size to obtain gauge

Stitch markers

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

13½ sts and 20½ rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in St st (see here).

PATTERN

Cast on 100 sts.

border:

Row 1: *K1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Row 2: *P1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 two more times, then repeat row 1 once more.

section 1:

Set-up row: (P1, k1) twice, p1, pm, p30, pm, k30, pm, p30, pm, (p1, k1) twice, p1.

Row 1: (K1, p1) twice, k1, sl m, knit to m, sl m, purl to m, sl m, knit to m, sl m, (k1, p1) twice, k1.

Row 2: (P1, k1) twice, p1, sl m, purl to m, sl m, knit to m, sl m, purl to m, sl m, (p1, k1) twice, p1.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until section 1 measures approximately 8½ inches (21.5 cm), ending with row 2.

section 2:

Row 1: (K1, p1) twice, k1, sl m, purl to m, sl m, knit to m, sl m, purl to m, sl m, (k1, p1) twice, k1.

Row 2: (P1, k1) twice, p1, sl m, knit to m, sl m, purl to m, sl m, knit to m, sl m, (p1, k1) twice, p1.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until section 2 measures approximately 8½ inches (21.5 cm), ending with row 2.

section 3:

Work same as section 1.

border:

Row 1: *K1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Row 2: *P1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Work rows 1 and 2 two more times.

Bind off all sts in pattern.

finishing:

Weave in all ends with tapestry needle. Block to measurements, finishing as directed on here.

TIPS & MEDITATIONS

WORKING IN THE ROUND

That leap from working back and forth in rows to knitting or crocheting in the round is such a terrifying one. It feels like an enormous step, one that we have to convince ourselves we’re truly ready for. But isn’t that true of everything? Think of your first time renting an apartment, buying a car, leading a workshop, speaking at a conference, hosting a dinner party, having a child—do we ever feel ready?

My way of dealing with the “anxiety of firsts” is to prepare. So although trial and error are wonderful (more on that later), it’s helpful to have as much information and preparation as possible before starting something new.

CROCHETING

Once again, the crocheters have it easy. In single crochet, instead of turning and chaining one and going back the other way, they simply keep going, round and round! However, with taller stitches, like double or triple crochet, or when you’re working rounds with different stitch lengths (say, one in sc and one in dc) it becomes slightly more complicated: you have to close the round. The pattern will instruct you in how to do this each time, but it’s really simple: you work a slip stitch into the first stitch of your previous round, then you chain the appropriate number of stitches for your next round (i.e. 2 for a dc, 3 for a tc, and so forth) and carry on from there.

The tricky part is knowing exactly where the end of your round is, so I always place a safety pin or removable stitch marker to help me keep track. Every few rounds I’ll detach the safety pin and replace it just underneath the round I’m working; otherwise it becomes too hard to see the join.

KNITTING

For knitters, working in the round is a little more complicated, because there are several different ways to do it. For projects with a circumference of at least 16 inches (40.5 cm), like a hat or the body of a sweater, it’s fairly simple. You use a circular knitting needle, which is just a cable of some kind with two short needles attached at either end. You cast on just as you would with a straight needle, then fan out your stitches so that the beginning of the cast-on stitches meets the end on the opposite needle. Check your stitches—are they straight? Is there a twist in there? If not, you’re good to go. Just place a stitch marker so that you know where the end of the round is, insert your right needle into the stitch on your left needle, and knit away. (If you’re at all concerned about missing any twisted stitches, knit a few rows flat before joining in the round, which will make them easier to spot. You can sew this up later).

Things get a little trickier when you’ve got a project with a circumference of less than 16 inches, like socks, sleeves, or mittens. For this, you’ve got several options, but the following are the two I prefer.

Double-Pointed Needles. Double-pointed needles (dpn/s) come in sets of four or five, and they are just what they sound like—knitting needles with points on both ends. Cast all your stitches onto one dpn in the normal fashion, then divide those stitches up evenly between three or four of the dpns, whichever number feels more comfortable for you. Place a stitch marker or a safety pin to help you keep track of the end of the round. Then insert another dpn into the first stitch you cast on (the stitch at the end of the cast-on row that does not have your yarn hanging off it), again being careful not to twist the cast-on row. Pick up your yarn and use it to knit that stitch. Knit to the end of that dpn, drop it, and pick up the next one, on and on until you reach the end of the round—and just continue from there. If, even while reading this, you’re feeling nervous about stitches falling off those points, you’re not alone! But you needn’t worry—unless your knitting is very loose indeed, those stitches will stay on.

Magic Loop. You’ll need a long circular needle (at least 32 inches/81 cm) with a very flexible cable. Cast on all your stitches and slide them to the center of the cable. Divide them in half and then, at the halfway point, pull the cable between the stitches, making a loop. Slide the first group of stitches onto your left needle, allowing the second group of stitches to rest on the cable. Bend and adjust the cable as necessary so that your right needle is free to work. Knit across the stitches on your left needle, then slide these stitches from your right needle onto the cable. Slide the resting group of stitches onto the left needle, and keep going. When you change from working one group of stitches to the next, pull the yarn tight to avoid stretched-out stitches, or “ladders.”

Check out the Resources on here for some helpful tutorials on all these methods of working in the round.

sahasrara (CROCHETED HEADBAND)

Sizes: Small (large). Shown in small.

This headband encircles the Sahasrara, the crown chakra, the purple chakra—the chakra of something more, something beyond the mundane. Call it spirituality, call it magic, call it religion, call it love—whatever your something more is, your crown chakra is your connection to it.

As you crochet a simple, practical crown, think about that concept of something more. It really is entirely up to you. What is the intangible thing that makes life more than a collection of bills, e-mails, texts, and Netflix?

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Circumference: approximately 16¼ (17½) inches (41.5 [44.5] cm); will stretch to fit circumference 21 (23) inches (53.5 [58.5] cm).

MATERIALS

68 (74) yards (62 [67] meters) worsted weight yarn (shown in The Fibre Company Organik, in color Heather Moorland, 1 hank each size)

Size K-10½ (6.5 mm) crochet hook

Safety pin

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

11 sts and 7 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in single crochet (see here).

Gauge is not critical to this project, but do make sure your work can stretch comfortably around your head.

PATTERN

Foundation ch: Ch 46 (49).

Set-up row: Begin in second ch, sc across row—45 (48) sts. Do not turn.

Join to work in the rnd, taking care not to twist sts. Place a safety pin to mark end of rnd.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, *(sc, dc, sc) in next stitch, skip next 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st in beginning ch.

Repeat rnd 1 until headband measures 4 inches (10 cm).

Next rnd: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with a sl st in beginning ch. Fasten off.

finishing:

Weave in all ends with tapestry needle.

manipura (KNITTED MUG COZY)

The yarn I use here is from the Isle of Skye, and it is dyed yellow-gold by the meadowsweet that grows there—the color of Manipura, the third chakra, the solar plexus chakra, the chakra of self-confidence.

I find that I cannot tap into my own personal power unless I am at peace with myself. Peace and power are intertwined within us, and though they seem to be, they are not opposed to one another. A peaceful cup of tea can bring heat to your solar plexus, stimulating the third chakra and awakening the power within you.

MATERIALS

25 yards (23 meters) DK weight yarn (shown in Shilasdair Luxury DK Meadowsweet)

US 5 (3.75 mm) needles

3 17-mm buttons

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

23 sts and 36 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in Garter st (see here).

Gauge is not critical to this project.

PATTERN

First, measure the circumference of your favorite tea mug.

Cast on 16 sts (or fewer, if the space between the top and bottom of your handle is quite small).

Work back and forth in Garter stitch until your cozy is the same length as the circumference of your mug when slightly stretched—for a standard-size mug, knit for about 10 inches (25 cm), or approximately 1½ inches (4 cm) less than the circumference of your mug.

Buttonhole row: *K2, k2tog, yo; repeat from * once more, k2tog, k2, yo, k2tog, k2—15 sts remain. Note: If you’ve changed the number of stitches cast on, make sure to adjust the placement of the buttonholes.

Knit 4 rows even.

Bind off all sts.

finishing:

Weave in all ends with tapestry needle. Sew buttons to cast-on edge opposite the buttonholes.

Part Two

TEXTURE

reclaim

(CROCHETED SOAP HOLDER)

I love fancy soaps. Handmade with goats’ milk, sprinkled with dried lavender, scented with essential oils—wrap it in a pretty package and I’m sold. But, inevitably, after a few showers those bars don’t look quite so fancy anymore, even if they still smell good. The soap dish gets scuzzy, cracks begin to run through the soap as it dries, and my showers feel less like self-care and more like just another part of my routine.

C’est la vie. Things that are shiny and new and presented in a beautiful way are so appreciated, but once that newness wears off we don’t value them nearly as much. Even if we try to stop ourselves, we feel this way about so much in life. Relationships, gym memberships, new clothes—they lose something with familiarity and use.

Texture is the way something feels. Sometimes we have to remind ourselves that the old and familiar is what we truly treasure. When I’ve got a collection of soap slivers that no longer fill me with the pleasure they once did, I slip them into this bag, reminding myself that looking at something differently, feeling it differently, can make it new again—and, even if not quite new, perhaps more beloved.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

7 inches (18 cm) circumference and 5½ inches (14 cm) long.

MATERIALS

75 yards (68.5 meters) sport weight cotton yarn (shown in Rowan Cotton Glace, colors Shoot [MC] and Ecru [CC], 1 ball of each)

Size G-6 (4 mm) crochet hook, or size to obtain gauge

Safety pin

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

14 sts and 13½ rnds = 4 inches (10 cm) in pattern repeat (see here).

PATTERN

Foundation ch: With MC, ch 24, join with a sl st in first ch. Place a safety pin to mark beginning of rnd.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around, join with a sl st in beginning ch.

Repeat rnd 1 two more times.

Next rnd: Ch 1, *work 2 sc, ch 1, skip 1 st; repeat from * around, join with a sl st in beginning ch.

Next rnd: Ch 1, sc around, join with a sl st in beginning ch.

Next rnd: Ch 2, dc around, join with a sl st in beginning ch.

Repeat last 2 rnds 4 more times.

Work 6 rnds of sc.

join bottom edge:

Hold the sides of the bag parallel, with 12 sts on each side. Insert hook into the first st on the front and first st in back and work sc, *work sc into next st of both front and back; repeat from * until all sts have been joined.

Turn bag inside out.

drawstring:

With MC, make a chain 12½ inches (31.5 cm) long. Fasten off. Thread drawstring through holes at top of bag.

Turn bag right side out.

flower:

See the instructions for making a simple flower on here, using CC. Sew flower onto bag using tapestry needle. Weave in all ends.

TIPS & MEDITATIONS

FINISHING

Does your finished object look lumpy and twisted and nothing like the picture? This is perfectly normal. Believe me, the shawl in the photograph next to your pattern looked just as lumpy—because that’s how some knitting and crochet projects look before they’re finished.

Contrary to what you may think, finishing a knitted or crocheted item isn’t like learning how to plate a home-cooked meal so that it looks like it does in a restaurant, nor is it like putting on eyeliner so that you look extra gorgeous—because your dinner will still taste amazing, even if it doesn’t look as pretty, and you will still be amazing, even if you won’t feel quite as put together. You can skip the finesse, and all will be well.

Finishing doesn’t work like that. If a shawl or sweater doesn’t get blocked properly, it won’t look right and it won’t fit right—because finishing is as much a part of creating as knitting or crocheting is. The good news is, it’s astonishingly easy.

Dunk your knitted or crocheted item in a sink filled with lukewarm water. Press it gently into the water, just to make sure it’s soaked through. Once it’s wet, gently squeeze out most of the excess water—don’t wring it, but it shouldn’t be sopping wet either.

Spread it out on a flat surface you won’t need for a day or two. Now begin blocking. This requires a little love and fussing—watch your edges and make sure they’re straight. Watch your stitches and make sure they aren’t being pulled one way or another. If you’re blocking a blanket, for instance, make sure the edges are square, not pulling into a parallelogram.

And now, have patience. Let your creation dry completely.

perspective shift (CROCHETED BOOT CUFFS)

Boot cuffs are the perfect marriage of cute and practical—they seem like a frivolous decoration but, in spite of being so small, they provide so much warmth. The ribbed stitch here creates a bit more bulk—and it’s so simple to do.

These cuffs are made essentially in double crochet—but you slip your hook into the back loop of the stitch. That’s all you do, yet it changes the fabric completely. Such a small thing—the switch to hooking through the back loop—makes such a noticeable difference. Similarly, sometimes when we switch our perspective oh-so-slightly, it makes the whole scene look different—like when we can suddenly see the other side of an argument, or realize that bad news really isn’t so bad after all. A small shift in perspective can make an enormous difference.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

10 inches (25.5 cm) long and 4 inches (10 cm) tall.

MATERIALS

100 yards (91 meters) worsted weight yarn (shown in Tess’ Designer Superwash Merino, in colors Teal [MC], and Orange [CC])

Size G-6 (4 mm) crochet hook, or size to obtain gauge

Tapestry needle

4 15-mm buttons

GAUGE

18 sts and 15 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in pattern stitch, blocked (see here).

PATTERN

Foundation ch: With MC, ch 16.

Row 1: Begin in second ch from hook, sc in each ch across, ch 1, and turn—15 sts.

Row 2: Sc through the back loop of each st across, ch 1, and turn.

Repeat row 2 until cuff fits comfortably around your calf when slightly stretched (it will be approximately 1½ inches [4 cm] shorter than the circumference of your calf). Fasten off.

border:

With CC, start at bottom edge and work sc across foundation ch, work an extra sc in corner, sc up side edge of cuff, work an extra sc in corner, work along top edge 3 sc, ch 2, sc in next st, then in each st to last 3 sts of top edge, ch 2, sc in next st, then to end of top edge, work an extra sc in corner, then sc down side edge, join with a sl st in first sc. Fasten off.

Make second boot cuff to match.

finishing:

Weave in all ends with tapestry needle. Sew buttons to foundation-ch edge opposite button loops. Block to measurements (p. 45).

simplicity (KNITTED HAT)

Sizes: Small (medium, large). Shown in medium.

Sometimes the yarn you choose provides all the texture you want. While splurging on a luxury yarn may feel like an indulgence, it’s important to treat yourself. Find a yarn you love—it doesn’t even have to be expensive, just something you love the feel of. Hold it against your cheek, against your neck. Smell it. Look at the way the fibers are twisted together. If the yarn uses more than one kind of fiber (I chose one that includes merino wool, baby alpaca, and silk), look at the ways the different types of fiber accepted the dye—here, the silk stands out in bright little clumps, while the alpaca blooms with a dark halo.

And then knit something really simple with it. Something in which the yarn is really all you’re thinking about, and let your hands and mind drift.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Circumference, above rib: 18¼ (19, 19¾) inches (46.5 [48.5, 50] cm); will stretch to fit 21 (22, 23) inches (53.5 [56, 58.5] cm) circumference.

Length: 7½ (8, 8½) inches (19 [20.5, 21.5] cm).

MATERIALS

125 (139, 156) yards (114 [127, 142] meters) DK weight yarn (shown in The Fibre Company Acadia, in color Kelp, 1 [1, 2] hank[s])

Size US 5 (3.75 mm) 16-inch (40 cm) long circular needle

Size US 7 (4.5 mm) 16-inch (40 cm) long circular needle, or size needed to obtain gauge

Size US 7 (4.5 mm) dpns

Stitch marker

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

21 sts and 32 rnds = 4 inches (10 cm) in St st with larger needle (see here).

PATTERN

Using smaller needle, cast on 96 (100, 104) sts. Pm and join to work in the rnd, taking care not to twist sts.

Rnd 1: *K2, p2; repeat from * around.

Repeat rnd 1 until rib measures 1¾ inches (4.5 cm).

Change to larger circular needle. Work in St st until piece measures 7 (7½, 8) inches (18 [19, 20.5] cm) from beginning.

shape top:

Change to dpns when necessary.

Decrease rnd 1: *K2, k2tog; repeat from * around—72 (75, 78) sts remain.

Decrease rnd 2: *K1, k2tog; repeat from * around—48 (50, 52) sts remain.

Decrease rnd 3: *K2tog; repeat from * around—24 (25, 26) sts remain.

Decrease rnd 4: *K2tog; repeat from * to last 0 (1, 0) st(s), k0 (1, 0)—12 (13, 13) sts remain.

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread tail in tapestry needle to draw through the remaining sts, pulling tight to close the hole.

finishing:

Weave in all ends with the tapestry needle. Block to measurements if desired (p. 45).

ease (KNITTED WASHCLOTHS)

A cloth made of organic cotton yarn has such a cleansing way of literally wiping away the cares of the day, or drying your favorite dishes, and it only grows softer with use.

The three patterns here give three different textures. Each looks different, and even feels a bit different—though that might just be my imagination. Even so, I reach for the Basket stitch when I’m feeling very wholesome and grounded. I reach for the Flecked stitch when I’ve had a hard day and I need something gentle and simple. And the slightly more complex Ribbed Triangle? When I use that cloth to wash my face before going to bed, I hope it will give me creative and inspiring dreams.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Approximately 7½ inches (19 cm) wide and 7¼ inches (18.5 cm) tall.

MATERIALS

55 yards (50 meters) DK weight cotton yarn (shown in Freedom Sincere Organic Cotton SK, in colors Slate and Pink, 1 ball per pattern)

Size US 5 (3.75 mm) needles

Tapestry needle

PATTERN

Basket cloth:

Cast on 38 sts.

Knit 2 rows.

Row 1 (RS): Knit.

Row 2 (WS): K2, purl to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 3: K4, *p2, k2; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 4: K2, *p2, k2; repeat from * to end.

Row 5: Repeat row 1.

Row 6: Repeat row 2.

Row 7: Repeat row 4.

Row 8: Repeat row 3.

Repeat rows 1–8 until cloth measures approximately 7 inches (18 cm), ending with row 1 or row 5.

Knit 2 rows.

Bind off all sts knitwise.

Finishing: Weave in all ends with tapestry needle.

Flecked cloth:

Cast on 37 sts.

Knit 2 rows.

Row 1 (RS): Knit.

Row 2 (WS): K2, purl to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 3: K3, *p1, k1; repeat from * to last 4 sts, p1, k3.

Row 4: K2, purl to last 2 sts, k2.

Repeat rows 1–4 until cloth measures approximately 7 inches (18 cm), ending with row 4.

Knit 3 rows.

Bind off all sts knitwise.

Finishing: Weave in all ends with tapestry needle.

ribbed triangle cloth:

Cast on 40 sts.

Knit 2 rows.

Row 1 (RS): K2, *p1, k4; repeat from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.

Row 2 (WS): K3, *p3, k2; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 3: K2, *p3, k2; repeat from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.

Row 4: K3, *p1, k4; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 5: Repeat row 3.

Row 6: Repeat row 2.

Repeat rows 1–4 until cloth measures approximately 7 inches (18 cm), ending with row 1 or 4.

Knit 2 rows if last row worked was row 1 of repeat, or knit 3 rows if last row worked was row 4 of repeat.

Bind off all sts knitwise.

Finishing: Weave in all ends with tapestry needle.

rustica (KNITTED SHAWL)

It’s easy these days to get your hands on a skein of handspun yarn—your local farmer’s market, Etsy, Amazon, Handmade, Ravelry, and even eBay all offer a bounty of gorgeous, handspun yarns. I made this yarn myself, out of a purple Polyworth wool top from a sheep living somewhere in New York State. This is the farm-to-table movement for your clothes, and as you knit with handspun, you can think about the sheep that grew the wool, the hands that carded it, the wheel that spun it, the person who put hours and hours into creating this skein for you to use.

And handspun is just so very soft!

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Approximately 54¼ inches (138 cm) wide and 18¾ inches (47.5 cm) long at deepest point.

MATERIALS

400 yards (366 meters) worsted weight handspun yarn

US 8 (5mm) 32-inch (80 cm) long circular needle

Stitch markers

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

18 sts and 24 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in St st (see here).

PATTERN

Cast on 8 sts.

Set-up row: K3, pm, k2, pm, k3.

Row 1 (RS): K2, m1, knit to m, m1, sl m, k2, sl m, m1, knit to last 2 sts, m1, k2—4 sts increased.

Row 2 (WS): K2, m1, purl to last 2 sts, slipping markers as you come to them, m1, k2—2 sts increased.

Rows 3–36: Repeat rows 1 and 2 seventeen more times—116 sts.

Row 37 (RS): K2, m1, knit to m, m1, sl m, k2, sl m, m1, knit to last 2 sts, m1, k2—4 sts increased.

Row 38 (WS): Knit to marker, sl m, p2, sl m, knit to end.

Rows 39–44: Repeat rows 37 and 38 three more times—132 sts.

Row 45 (RS): K2, m1, knit to m, m1, sl m, k2, sl m, m1, knit to last 2 sts, m1, k2—4 sts increased.

Row 46 (WS): K2, purl to last 2 sts, slipping markers as you come to them, k2.

Rows 47–54: Repeat rows 45 and 46 four more times—152 sts.

Row 55: K2, m1p, (k2, p2) to marker, m1p, sl m, k2, sl m, m1p, (p2, k2) to last 2 sts, m1p, k2—4 sts increased.

Row 56: K3, (p2, k2) to 1 st before marker, k1, sl m, p2, sl m, k3, (p2, k2) to last 5 sts, p2, k3.

Row 57: K2, m1p, p1, (k2, p2) to 1 st before marker, p1, m1p, sl m, k2, sl m, m1p, p1, (p2, k2) to last 3 sts, p1, m1p, k2—4 sts increased.

Row 58: K4, (p2, k2) to 2 sts before marker, k2, sl m, p2, sl m, k4, (p2, k2) to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 59: K2, m1, (p2, k2) to 4 sts before m, p4, m1p, sl m, k2, sl m, m1p, p4, (k2, p2) to last 2 sts, m1, k2—164 sts.

Row 60: K2, p1, (k2, p2) to 5 sts before marker, knit to m, sl m, p2, sl m, k5, (p2, k2) to last 3 sts, p1, k2.

Rows 61–70: Repeat rows 45 and 46 five more times—184 sts.

Rows 71–78: Repeat rows 37 and 38 four more times—200 sts.

Rows 79–88: Repeat rows 45 and 46 five more times—220 sts.

Row 89 (RS): K2, m1, *p2, k2; repeat from * to last 4 sts, p2, m1, k2—2 sts increased.

Row 90 (WS): K2, p1, *k2, p2; repeat from * to last 5 sts, k2, p1, k2.

Row 91: K2, m1, k1, *p2, k2; repeat from * to last 5 sts, p2, k1, m1, k2—2 sts increased.

Row 92: K2, *p2, k2; repeat from * to end.

Row 93: K2, m1p, *k2, p2; repeat from * to last 2 sts, m1p, k2—2 sts increased.

Row 94: K3, *p2, k2; repeat from * to last 5 sts, p2, k3.

Row 95: K2, m1p, p1, *k2, p2; repeat from * to last 5 sts, k2, p1, m1p, k2—2 sts increased.

Row 96: K4, *p2, k2; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Rows 97–112: Repeat rows 89–96 two more times—244 sts.

Bind off all sts loosely using the k2tog method (see here).

finishing:

Weave in all ends with tapestry needle. Finish according to the instructions on here.

leisure (CROCHETED EYE PILLOW)

Self-care. It’s such a cold phrase—it sounds so clinical, like a DIY hospital. And it’s something we often feel a little uncomfortable about, as if we are being self-indulgent, even though self-care is something we need to do, so that we are well enough to care for others.

Here’s the thing, and it took me a while to understand this: Self-care is all of the above, but more than anything, it’s meant to be enjoyed. That’s the whole point. So forget those negative feelings about self-indulgence, and definitely forget the idea that you’re doing this for others, since that kind of takes away the fun of it. Just do something that feels good. Crocheting is self-care. Lying in the sunshine in self-care. Enjoying a glass of wine is definitely self-care.

So if you need, or even if you just want, a little something special, make yourself this eye pillow, using the softest, most soothing yarn you can find. Take care of yourself.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

7¾ inches (19.5 cm) long and 4¼ inches (11 cm) tall.

MATERIALS

71 yards (65 meters) worsted weight yarn (shown in Rowan Softknit Cotton, in color Walnut, 1 ball)

Size E-4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook

Tapestry needle

Small amount of cotton fabric (an old T-shirt will work)

Uncooked rice, lentils, or flaxseed

Dried chamomile, rose petals, and/or lavender

Needle and thread

2 15-mm buttons

GAUGE

15 sts and 16 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in single crochet (see here).

PATTERN

Foundation ch: Ch 29.

Row 1: Begin in second ch from hook, work sc across ch, ch 1, and turn—28 sts.

Row 2: Sc across, ch 1, and turn.

Repeat row 2 until piece measures 4 inches (10 cm) long. Fasten off.

Make a second rectangle, same as the first. Fasten off but do not cut yarn.

finishing:

Holding both rectangles together, join them along 3 edges using sl st, leaving one short end open, like a small pillowcase.

Work sl st across one layer of the opening, then turn and work along the other side of opening, 3 sl sts, ch 2, sl st in next st, then each st to last 3 sts, ch 2, sl st in next st, then in remaining 2 sts. Fasten off.

Weave in all ends with tapestry needle. Sew buttons on opening edge opposite button loops.

lining and filling:

Cut two pieces of fabric, 4 inches (10 cm) by 8 inches (20.5 cm). Sew them together along 3 edges, using a ⅜-inch (1 cm) seam allowance, and leave one short edge open. Turn right side out.

Fill the lining with uncooked rice or lentils, adding dried lavender, chamomile, or whatever else feels like it would be soothing and comforting. You could even add a few drops of essential oils.

Sew the remaining edge of the lining bag shut. To use hot, microwave it for a minute; to use cold, pop it in the freezer for an hour or so. Slide the filled lining into your crocheted pillowcase, button the end, then lay it across your closed eyes and enjoy.

pisces (KNITTED HAT)

Sizes: Small (medium, large). Shown in medium.

There are a lot of knitting stitches, to say the least. I don’t know all of them, and I certainly haven’t knit even a tiny portion of them. But of the ones I have, Fisherman’s Rib is by far my favorite. The name itself calls to mind fishermen in gansey sweaters, wearing layers and layers of wool to keep warm in the blustery winds. It involves knitting every row twice, using up a lot of yarn—but it produces the thickest, warmest, squishiest fabric.

The Fisherman’s Rib doesn’t really look any different from a regular single-rib stitch; the difference is all in the feel. It’s created by knitting into the stitch below the loop on the needle, causing that loop to drape over the stitch. It feels a little odd, so it takes some practice. But like most things that stretch your mind a bit and cause you to look at something familiar in a slightly different way, it’s entirely worth it.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Brim circumference: 18 (19, 20) inches (45.5 [48.5, 51] cm).

Length: 10¼ inches (26 cm).

MATERIALS

191 (202, 213) yards (174 [185, 195] meters) worsted weight yarn (shown here in Berroco Ultra Alpaca Worsted, in color Steel Cut Oats, 1 hank each size)

Size US 9 (5.5 mm) 16-inch (40 cm) long circular needle, or size to obtain gauge

Size US 9 (5.5 mm) dpns

Stitch marker

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

16 sts and 32 rnds = 4 inches (10 cm) in Garter st (see here).

NOTES

K1-b (knit 1 in the row below)

To knit into the stitch in the row below, insert the right-hand needle knitwise (from front to back) into the middle of the stitch directly below the next stitch on the left-hand needle. Wrap yarn around the right-hand needle and pull it through the stitch, slipping the stitch off the left-hand needle—don’t worry, nothing terrible will happen! The yarn will lie doubled, as if two stitches had been knit together.

P1-b (purl 1 in the row below)

To purl into the stitch in the row below, insert the right-hand needle purlwise (from back to front) into the middle of the stitch directly below the next stitch on the left-hand needle, below the purl bump. Wrap yarn around the right-hand needle and pull it through the stitch, slipping the stitch off the left-hand needle.

PATTERN

With circular needle, cast on 72 (76, 80) sts. Pm and join in the rnd, taking care not to twist sts.

Next rnd: Knit.

Next rnd: Purl.

Repeat last 2 rnds until Garter st measures 1½ inches (4 cm), ending with a knit rnd.

fisherman’s rib:

Rnd 1: *P1, k1-b; repeat from * around.

Rnd 2: *P1-b, k1; repeat from * around.

Repeat rnds 1 and 2 until piece measures 9 inches (23 cm), ending with rnd 1. Note: When measuring Fisherman’s Rib, keep in mind that every two rounds will look like one round.

crown:

Decrease rnd 1: *P1-b, k1, k2tog; repeat from * around—54 (57, 60) sts remain.

Next rnd: *P1, k1-b, k1; repeat from * around.

Decrease rnd 2: *P1-b, k2tog; repeat from * around—36 (38, 40) sts remain.

Next rnd: *P1, k1; repeat from * around.

Decrease rnd 3: *K2tog; repeat from * around—18 (19, 20) sts remain.

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread tail in tapestry needle and draw through remaining sts, then pull tight to close hole.

finishing:

Weave in all ends with tapestry needle.

portland (KNITTED FINGERLESS GLOVES)

Sizes: Small (medium, large). Shown in small.

I love fingerless gloves. As soon as October gets that little nip in the air, I pull out a pair. You can knit with them on, and in them you may feel stylish with just a bit of funky flair. They’re the Portland, Oregon, of accessories.

The Ribbed Ridge stitch used here is one of my favorites. It creates a texture that is deep and squishy, and best of all, it demonstrates how just a tiny interruption—a purl row inserting itself into a rib stitch—can make such an enormous difference in how the fabric looks and feels. As you work this stich, think about the tiny interruptions we are constantly negotiating in life—and how, perhaps, they change the fabric of our lives in positive ways. It all depends on how you look at it.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Hand circumference: 5¼ (5½, 6) inches (13.5 [14, 15] cm); will stretch to fit hand circumference of 6½ (7, 7½) inches (16.5 [18, 19] cm).

Length: 9 (9½, 9¾) inches (23 [24, 25] cm).

MATERIALS

132 (146, 166) yards (120 [133, 152] meters) DK weight yarn (shown in Madelinetosh Tosh DK, in color Ink, 1 hank each size)

Size US 5 (3.75 mm) dpns or 32-inch (80 cm) or longer circular needle

Size US 6 (4 mm) dpns or 32-inch (80 cm) or longer circular needle, or size needed to obtain gauge

Stitch markers

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

23 sts and 35 rnds = 4 inches (10 cm) in pattern with larger needles (see here).

PATTERN

cuff:

Using smaller needles, cast on 32 (34, 36) sts. Pm and join to work in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts.

Rnd 1: *K1, p1; repeat from * around.

Repeat rnd 1 until cuff measures 2 inches (5 cm).

wrist:

Change to larger needles.

Rnd 1: Knit.

Rnd 2: Purl.

Rnds 3 and 4: *K1, p1; repeat from * around.

Repeat rnds 1–4 until piece measures 5¼ inches (13.5 cm) from beginning, ending with rnd 4.

thumb gusset:

Rnd 1: K15 (16, 17), pm, m1, k2, m1, pm, knit to end—34 (36, 38) sts, with 4 sts between markers.

Rnd 2: Work in established pattern to marker, sl m, knit to marker, sl m, work in established pattern to end.

Rnd 3: Work in established pattern to marker, sl m, m1, knit to marker, m1, sl m, work in established pattern to end—2 sts increased.

Rnd 4: Work in established pattern to marker, sl m, knit to marker, work in established pattern to end.

Repeat rnds 2–4 four (five, six) more times—44 (48, 52) sts, with 14 (16, 18) sts between markers.

palm:

Next rnd: Work in established pattern to marker, remove markers, bind off sts between markers, work in established pattern to end—30 (32, 34) sts remain.

Continue working in the established pattern for 1 inch (2.5 cm), ending with rnd 2.

Change to smaller needles.

Next rnd: *K1, p1; repeat from * around.

Repeat last rnd until rib measures 1 inch (2.5 cm).

Bind off all sts loosely in rib.

Make a second fingerless glove, same as first.

finishing:

Weave in all ends with tapestry needle.

gleam (CROCHETED BRACELET)

Fishermen used to crochet fishing nets. Far back in time, people crocheted reeds and grasses, animal skins and sinew. I’m not going to recommend that last one, but the fact remains that if a material is flexible enough, it can be crocheted—and the results can be stunning.

Crocheting with wire can be as complex or as simple as you like. To be perfectly honest, this was my first adventure with it, and I immediately made bracelets and necklaces for all my friends and family. It feels very different, but the basic principles remain the same—it’s a bit like attempting to write with your nondominant hand (though much easier than that). Stretch an unused muscle and make your brain work a bit as you try something new.

MATERIALS

5 yards (4.5 meters) 24-gauge artistic wire

Size G-6 (4 mm) crochet hook (plastic or metal is best)

48–60 beads

Multistrand toggle clasp

6 jump rings

Wire cutters

PATTERN

Lay out your beads, designing your pattern. You’ll want approximately 16–20 beads per strand, with three strands in the finished piece.

String the beads for the first strand onto the wire.

Row 1: Ch 1, slide first bead up wire and ch 1, letting the bead rest within the ch, *slide the next bead up and ch 1, letting the bead rest within the ch; repeat from * until all the beads have been used and the ch is approximately 5 inches (12.5 cm) long, ch 1, cut wire with wire cutter.

Leaving a loop at each end of the strand, wrap the ends of your wire carefully, testing them against your wrist, checking to make sure they don’t scratch.

Repeat with the remaining 2 strands of wire.

finishing:

Use the jump rings to attach the strands to the clasp.

TIPS & MEDITATIONS

GAUGE

This book is meant to be calming and meditative, and for that reason I don’t put too much emphasis on the concept of “gauge.” Gauge isn’t hard or complicated, but it can be a little fussy—and fussy isn’t what we’re going for here. On the other hand, it’s an important part of your knitting and crocheting toolbox, and as you get more adventurous in your crafting, you will want to understand what gauge is and why it’s important.

Gauge is just a way of standardizing the fabric. Everyone knits and crochets differently. Some of us pull our yarn really tight, and some of us are a little more relaxed—and this is true of the designer as well. Gauge is simply the number of stitches per inch (2.5 cm) of fabric—if you’re using a larger hook and a thicker yarn, you might have four stitches per inch, and you might get seven with a thinner yarn and a smaller hook, and so forth. So while the designer might be sizing his or her patterns at a gauge of seven stitches per inch using size 4 needles, you might be getting more like six or eight stitches per inch.

Often that’s not a big deal. Your flower doesn’t need to be exactly the same size as the flower pictured, and the hat patterns given here are stretchy enough to accommodate a less-than-perfect gauge match. But if you’re making a sweater, for instance, and your gauge is off by a stitch or two, it won’t fit quite right.

This is easy enough to figure out. Using the suggested needle (or hook) and yarn size, make a square, 5 × 5 inches (13 × 13 cm) or larger, in the stitch given in the pattern’s gauge information (usually Stockinette, but not always). Count how many stitches are in 4 inches (10 cm), and how many rows are in 4 inches (10 cm). If you have more than the pattern’s gauge, go up a needle or hook size and check again. If you have fewer, go down a size. Your number doesn’t have to be spot on, but the closer you get, the better the fit.

Part Three

STRUCTURE

carry

(CROCHETED SHOULDER BAG)

Chain-work crochet calls to mind old-fashioned fishing nets—some of which used to be made this very same way. The finished product is strong yet supple and hides nothing yet carries everything. Isn’t that how we all want to be?

This bag is sized to fit everything from kale and fresh fruit from the farmer’s market to a yoga mat and a water bottle. It’s crocheted out of a strong blend of cotton and acrylic, so you can toss it in the washer and dryer should it ever get stained or dirty from anything you pick up on your travels.

As you crochet, think about what you want this bag to hold—it could be chips and sandwiches for a picnic in the park, or books from the library. And then take these thoughts a step further—if we are like this bag, strong and flexible, a slate that can be wiped clean again and again, what do we want to carry within ourselves? What will you take with you every day, and what will you let go of?

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

18 inches (45.5 cm) long and 13 inches (33 cm) wide, unstretched.

MATERIALS

350 yards (320 meters) worsted weight cotton blend yarn (shown in Cascade Avalon, in color Faded Denim, 3 hanks)

Size G-6 (4 mm) crochet hook

Tapestry needle

PATTERN

Foundation ch: Ch 52.

Set-up row: Begin in second ch from the hook, *ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch; repeat from * to end of row, turn—26 dc and 25 ch.

Next row: Ch 2 (counts as a dc), dc in ch-1 sp, *ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * to end of row, dc in turning ch of previous row, turn—27 dc and 24 ch.

Next row: Ch 3 (counts as dc, ch 1), *dc in ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * to last ch-1 sp, dc in turning ch of previous row, turn—26 dc and 25 ch.

Repeat last 2 rows until your work measures 18 inches (45.5 cm).

handle:

Next row: Ch 1, sc in each dc and ch across row, turn—51 sts.

Decrease row: Ch 1, skip 2 sts, sc2tog, sc to last 3 sts (make sure you don’t count turning chain from the previous row), skip 1 st, sc2tog, ch 1, and turn—4 sts decreased.

Repeat decrease row 10 more times—7 sts remain.

Continue evenly in sc for 16 inches (40.5 cm).

Increase row: Ch 1, skip 1 st, 3 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in each st to last 2 sts, 2 sc in next, then 3 sc in last st, turn—4 sts increased.

Repeat increase row 10 more times—51 sts.

opposite side:

Set-up row: Ch 3 (counts as dc, ch 1), skip first st and dc in next st, *ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st; repeat from * to end of row, turn—26 dc and 25 ch.

Next row: Ch 2 (counts as a dc), dc in ch-1 sp, *ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * to end of row, dc in turning ch of previous row, turn—27 dc and 24 ch.

Next row: Ch 3 (counts as dc, ch 1), *dc in ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * to last ch-1 sp, dc in turning ch of previous row, turn—26 dc and 25 ch.

Repeat last 2 rows until opposite side measures 18 inches (45.5 cm) from base of handle. Fasten off.

finishing:

Weave in all ends using tapestry needle. Sew bag together along sides and bottom, leaving top edge open. Block as instructed on here.

reach (KNITTED CARDIGAN)

Sizes: Small (medium, large, extra-large). Shown in small.

This is a stylish riff on the classic Grandpa cardigan. It’s got a lot of shaping, but it’s all done using one stitch: m1 (make one; see the Stitch Dictionary on here). Strategically placed increases create every part of this sweater, from the yoke to the deep V-neck and even the collar. The cardigan is worked all in one piece—there’s no sewing or anything. It’s built by giving just a little more with every row, as if you’re growing the sweater.

If a sweater feels overly ambitious—it’s too big a project, it’s too hard—rethink that. It’s faster than you think, and easier, too. Most things are, once you sit down to try them.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

To fit bust: 34 (38, 42, 46) inches (86.5 [96.5, 106.5, 117] cm).

Length: 22 (24, 25½, 27½) inches (56 [61, 64½, 70] cm).

MATERIALS

1,121 (1,333, 1,524, 1,769) yards (1,025 [1,219, 1,393, 1,617] meters) Aran weight yarn (shown in Manos del Uruguay Maxima, in color Oxygen, 6 [7, 7, 8] hanks)

Size US 10 (6 mm) 32-inch (80 cm) long circular needle, or size needed to obtain gauge

Size US 10½ (6.5 mm) 32-inch (80 cm) long circular needle

Size US 10 (6 mm) dpns or long circular needle

Size US 10½ (6.5 mm) dpns or long circular needle

Stitch markers

Waste yarn

3 22-mm buttons

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

16 sts and 25 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in St st with smaller needles (see here).

NOTES

You can either use double-pointed needles to make the sleeves or use a circular needle 32 inches (40 cm) long or longer to make the sleeves with the Magic Loop method (here).

PATTERN

For a helpful diagram, see here.

With larger circular needle, cast on 32 (40, 48, 56) sts. Do not join.

Knit 17 rows.

yoke:

Change to smaller circular needle.

Set-up row (WS): P1 (2, 3, 4), pm, p1, pm, p6 (8, 10, 12), pm, p1, pm, p14 (16, 18, 20), pm, p1, pm, p6 (8, 10, 12), pm, p1, pm, p1 (2, 3, 4).

Row 1 (RS): Knit to marker, sl m, k1, sl m, m1, *knit to marker, m1, sl m, k1, sl m, m1; repeat from * once more, knit to marker, m1, sl m, knit to end—6 sts increased.

Rows 2 and 4 (WS): Purl.

Row 3: Repeat row 1—6 sts increased.

Row 5: *Knit to marker, m1, sl m, k1, sl m, m1; repeat from * 3 more times, knit to end—8 sts increased.

Row 6: Purl.

Repeat rows 1–6 seven (7, 8, 8) more times, then repeat rows 1–4 zero (1, 0, 1) more time(s)—192 (212, 228, 248) sts, with 9 (10, 12, 13) sts for each front, 54 (60, 64, 70) sts for each sleeve, 62 (68, 72, 78) sts for back, and 4 Raglan sts. Yoke should measure 7¾ (8½, 8¾, 9½) inches (19.5 [21.5, 22, 24] cm) from set-up row.

divide body and sleeves:

Next row (RS): Knit to marker, sl m, k1, remove marker, place next 54 (58, 62, 66) sts on waste yarn for sleeve, cast on 4 (4, 5, 5) sts using the backward loop method (here), pm, cast on 4 (5, 6, 7) sts using the backward loop method, remove marker, k1, remove marker, knit to next marker, remove marker, k1, remove marker, place next 54 (58, 62, 66) sts on waste yarn for sleeve, cast on 4 (5, 6, 7) sts using the backward loop method, pm, cast on 4 (4, 5, 5) sts using the backward loop method, remove marker, k1, sl m, knit to end—100 (114, 126, 140) sts.

body:

Beginning with a WS row, work 5 rows even in St st.

Next row (RS): Knit to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sl m, knit to last marker, sl m, k1, m1, knit to end—2 sts increased.

Repeat last 6 rows 9 (10, 11, 12) more times—120 (136, 150, 166) sts.

hips:

Next row (RS): Knit to marker, remove marker, *knit to 1 st before next marker, m1, k1, sl m, k1, m1; repeat from * once more, knit to last marker, remove marker, knit to end—124 (140, 154, 170) sts.

Work 3 rows even.

Next row (RS): *Knit to 1 st before next marker, m1, k1, sl m, k1, m1; repeat from * once more, knit to end—4 sts increased.

Repeat last 4 rows 5 more times, ending with an increase row—148 (164, 178, 194) sts. Body should measure 13½ (14½, 15½, 16½) inches (34.5 [37, 39.5, 42] cm) from armhole.

hem:

Change to larger circular needle. Knit 14 rows. Bind off all sts knitwise.

right sleeve:

Place held 54 (58, 62, 66) sts for right sleeve on smaller dpns or circular needle.

Next row (WS): Bind off 4 (4, 5, 5) sts, purl to end—50 (54, 57, 61) sts remain.

Next row (RS): Bind off 4 (5, 6, 7) sts, knit to end—46 (49, 51, 54) sts remain. Pm and join to work in the rnd.

Work even in St st until sleeve measures 18 (19, 20, 21) inches (45.5 [48.5, 51, 53.5] cm).

Change to larger dpns or circular needle.

cuff:

Begin with a purl rnd, work 14 rnds in Garter st. Bind off all sts purlwise.

left sleeve:

Place held 54 (58, 62, 66) sts for left sleeve on smaller dpns or circular needle.

Next row (WS): Bind off 4 (5, 6, 7) sts, purl to end—50 (53, 56, 59) sts remain.

Next row (RS): Bind off 4 (4, 5, 5) sts, knit to end—46 (48, 51, 54) sts remain. Pm and join to work in the rnd.

Complete left sleeve same as right.

button band:

With larger circular needle and RS facing, begin at bottom of right front, pick up and knit 108 (114, 120, 126) sts evenly spaced along right front edge.

Beginning with a WS row, knit 14 rows. Bind off all sts knitwise.

buttonhole band:

With larger circular needle and RS facing, begin at top of left front, pick up and knit 108 (114, 120, 126) sts evenly spaced along left front edge. Pm where front shaping ends.

Beginning with a WS row, knit 7 rows.

Buttonhole row (RS): Knit to marker, k2tog, yo; repeat from * once more, knit to end.

Knit 6 more rows. Bind off all sts knitwise.

collar:

With larger circular needle and RS facing, begin at button band bound-off edge, pick up and knit 44 (52, 60, 68) sts evenly spaced along ends of front bands and cast-on edge to buttonhole band bound-off edge.

Next row (WS): Knit.

Next row (RS): *K2, m1; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2—65 (77, 89, 101) sts.

Knit 11 rows even. Bind off all sts knitwise.

finishing:

Weave in all ends with tapestry needle. Sew body and sleeves together at bottom of armholes. Block to finished measurements (here). Sew buttons to button band opposite buttonholes.

NOTE: PICKING UP STITCHES

With knitting needles: Insert the tip of your left needle into the space between two stitches, lift the strand of yarn, and use your right needle to knit that stitch.

With a crochet hook: Insert your hook into the space between two stitches. Yarn over and pull through a loop, then place the loop onto your right-hand needle.

faire (CROCHETED HAT)

Sizes: Small (large). Shown in small.

This hat starts at the crown, expanding from a loop into a flower and then transforming into a shell stitch, whose clusters gradually become smaller and smaller. It reminds me of a snood, those decorative hairnets worn during the Middle Ages and into the Renaissance—and later, too, of course, as more and more women began working in factories during World War II, though more for practicality then.

All the clothing we wear is a nod to history. When you pull on your super-cute jeans, remember that Levi’s started making women’s jeans only in the 1930s. What is commonplace now wasn’t always. If we remember the past, we are more able to value the present.

As a bonus, if you want to go to a Renaissance fair, you could rock this hat with your corset!

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Brim circumference: 17½ (19¾) inches (44.5 [50] cm); will stretch to fit approximately 21 (23) inches (53.5 [58.5] cm).

Length: 7½ (9½) inches (19 [24] cm).

MATERIALS

130 (160) yards (119 [146] meters) DK weight yarn (shown in Rowan Softknit Cotton, in color Willow, 2 balls each size)

Size G-6 (4 mm) crochet hook

Safety pin

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

15 sts and 15 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in single crochet (see here).

PATTERN

Foundation ring: Ch 3, join with a sl st in first ch. Place safety pin at join to mark beginning of rnds.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, work 8 (9) sc around ring, join with a sl st in beginning ch—8 (9) sts.

Rnd 2: *Ch 2, work 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around, join with a sl st in beginning ch—16 (18) dc and 8 (9) ch-sp.

Rnd 3: *Sc between 2 dc of previous rnd, (dc, 3 tr, dc) in ch-1 sp; repeat from * around—48 (54) sts.

Rnd 4: *Sc, hdc, dc, 3 tr in next st, dc, hdc; repeat from * around, sl st in sc at beginning of rnd—64 (72) sts.

Rnd 5: *Ch 1, skip 1 st, sc in next st; repeat from * around—32 (36) sc and 32 (36) ch-sp.

Rnd 6: Ch 1, *5 dc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp; repeat from * around—16 (18) dc-clusters.

Rnds 7 and 8: *Ch 1, skip dc cluster, 5 dc in ch-1 sp; repeat from * around.

Rnds 9 and 10: *Ch 1, skip dc cluster, 4 dc in ch-1 sp; repeat from * around.

Rnds 11 and 12: *Ch 1, skip dc cluster, 3 dc in ch-1 sp; repeat from * around.

Rnd 13: *Skip dc cluster, 3 dc in ch-1 sp; repeat from * around. Note: There are no chains between clusters on this round or the next three rounds.

Rnd 14: *Skip dc cluster, 3 dc in space between clusters; repeat from * around.

Rnds 15 and 16: Repeat rnd 14 two more times.

Rnd 17: Ch 1, *7 sc, sc2tog; repeat from * 5 (6) more times, sc to end, join with sl st in beginning ch—66 (74) sts remain.

Rnds 18–20: Ch 1, work sc around, join with a sl st in beginning ch.

Fasten off.

finishing:

Weave in all ends with tapestry needle. Block to measurements if desired (here).

sarvangasana (CROCHETED SHRUG)

Sizes: Small (medium, large). Shown in small.

This is a lovely, dignified shrug, one that can be worn to a wedding or to church or to the office. Its construction is simple and elegant—nothing but a rectangle stitched together to make armholes, with an edging to make it look fancy. But I’m naming it after sarvangasana (shoulder stand), that world-upside-down, playful, and childlike yoga pose, because just because something looks elegant, doesn’t mean that it was easy getting there.

We all make mistakes, and I made a lot while working on this shrug. I ended up redoing the edging on the sleeves about six times. (Don’t ask.) If you’ve ever found yourself working the same irritating section over and over, and you just can’t figure out how to get it right—know that you are not alone. We have all been there. I wanted to tear my hair out while working on this shrug.

But I took a break. I did something silly and fun, and then when I came back to my crocheting, my mind was clear and whatever had been blocking me was gone. When you find yourself caught in a tricky stitch, whether that stitch is in crochet or in life, put it down for a while and do a metaphorical shoulder stand—or a real one! You’ll come back with a new perspective.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Width cuff to cuff, including edgings: 40 (44, 47) inches (101.5 [112, 119.5] cm).

Length, including edgings: 25 (28, 31) inches (63.5 [71, 78.5] cm).

MATERIALS

554 (695, 850) yards (506 [635, 777] meters) worsted weight yarn (shown in Malabrigo Rios, in color Tranquilo, 3 [4, 5] hanks)

Size K-10½ (6.5 mm) crochet hook, or size to obtain gauge

Safety pin

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

12 sts and 15 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in single crochet through back loop, blocked (see here).

PATTERN

For a helpful diagram, see here.

Foundation ch: Ch 73 (79, 85).

Row 1: Begin in second ch from hook, sc through the back loop only across, turn—72 (78, 84) sts.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc through the back loop only in each st across, turn.

Repeat row 2 until your piece measures 19 (22, 25) inches (48.5 [56, 63.5] cm) when stretched.

Block (here), so that the piece measures 24 (26, 28) inches (61 [66, 71] cm) long and 19 (22, 25) inches (48.5 [55.5, 63.5] cm) tall.

assembly:

Fold your fabric in half so that the top and bottom edges are together. Use your tapestry needle and yarn to stitch up the side seams from the corner of the top and bottom edge along the side for 4½ (5, 5½) inches (11.5 [12.5, 14] cm), leaving a gap of 6 (7, 7½) inches (15.25 [17.75, 19] cm) from the fold line for the armholes. Repeat on the other side. See here for a helpful diagram.

edging:

Set-up rnd: Attach yarn to center of one long edge, ch 1, then work 132 (143, 154) sc evenly around, join with a sl st in first st. Place a safety pin to mark the beginning of the rnd.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, 4 sc, skip 1, work 7 sc in next st, *skip 1, 8 sc, skip 1, work 7 sc in next st; repeat from * 10 (11, 12) more times, skip 1, 4 sc, join with a sl st in top of beginning ch.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, 3 sc, skip 1, (ch 1, hdc) 7 times, *ch 1, skip 1, 6 sc, skip 1, (ch 1, hdc) 7 times; repeat from * 10 (11, 12) more times, ch 1, skip 1, 3 sc, join with a sl st in top of beginning ch.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, 2 sc, skip 1, (2 dc in ch-1 sp, skip 1) 8 times, *4 sc, skip 1, (2 dc in ch-1 sp, skip 1) 8 times; repeat from * 10 (11, 12) more times, 2 sc, join with a sl st in top of beginning ch.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, *1 sc, skip 1, hdc in space before dc, (ch 1, skip 2, hdc in space before next dc) 7 times, ch 1, hdc in space after last dc, skip 1, 1 sc; repeat from * 10 (11, 12) more times, join with a sl st in top of beginning ch.

Rnd 5: *Ch 1, (2 sc in ch-1 sp) 9 times; repeat from * 10 (11, 12) more times, join with a sl st in top of beginning ch. Fasten off.

sleeves:

Set-up rnd: Beginning at the side seam, attach the yarn and work 33 (44, 44) sc evenly around armhole, join with a sl st in top of first st.

Rnd 1: Ch 2, hdc through the back loop around, join with a sl st in top of beginning ch.

Repeat rnd 1 until sleeve measures 5 (6, 6½) inches (12.5 [15, 16.5] cm).

sleeve edging:

Set-up rnd: Ch 1, sc around, join with a sl st in top of beginning ch.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, 4 sc, skip 1, work 7 sc in next st, *skip 1, 8 sc, work 7 sc in next st; repeat from * 1 (2, 2) more time(s), skip 1, 4 sc, join with a sl st in top of beginning ch.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, 3 sc, skip 1, (ch 1, hdc) 7 times, *ch 1, skip 1, 6 sc, skip 1, (ch 1, hdc) 7 times; repeat from * 1 (2, 2) more time(s), ch 1, skip 1, 3 sc, join with a sl st in top of beginning ch.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, 2 sc, skip 1, (2 dc in ch-1 sp, skip 1) 8 times, *4 sc, skip 1, (2 dc in ch-1 sp, skip 1) 8 times; repeat from * 1 (2, 2) more time(s), 2 sc, join with a sl st in top of beginning ch.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, *1 sc, skip 1, hdc in space before dc, (ch 1, skip 2, hdc in space before next dc) 7 times, ch 1, skip 2 hdc in space after last dc, skip 1, 1 sc; repeat from * 2 (3, 3) more times, join with a sl st in top of beginning ch.

Rnd 5: *Ch 1, (2 sc in ch-1 space) 9 times; repeat from * 2 (3, 3) more times, join with a sl st in top of beginning ch. Fasten off.

finishing:

Weave in all ends with tapestry needle. Block according to the instructions on here.

TIPS & MEDITATIONS

YARN

Knitting and crocheting are tactile arts. They are about how something feels, not just how it looks, and the yarn we choose is a huge part of that. And because life is what it is, sometimes the yarn we want to choose is quite expensive. But that isn’t always the case—I would definitely consider some of the yarns you see here as splurges, but others are as inexpensive as they are lovely.

Yarn choice depends on what you’re making and how it feels to you. Some folks are really put off by acrylic—I don’t mind it, particularly if it’s blended with some wool content. I love the way mohair looks, with its gorgeous halo, but it makes me itch. It’s all about what you’re going to make (a cashmere market bag would be ridiculous, for instance, while I could see getting behind a cashmere eye pillow) and what brings you joy.

Sometimes I’ve made things out of yarn I didn’t quite love, but I bought it because it was on sale or someone gave it to me, and I figured, hey, I can make something out of this. And I did, and it was “something”—but I didn’t love working with it, and I didn’t love the result. It either stayed forgotten in a drawer or I gave it away.

So choose carefully and with love.

contain (CROCHETED BASKET)

It’s amazing how something as soft and pliable as yarn can be made firm if you work it at a tight enough gauge. This little basket is created by growing a tiny circle exponentially by a factor of two, and then growing it in a different direction by ceasing all increases—where once it grew out, now it grows up.

Like this basket, we never stop growing, in one way or another, with each day, with each stitch. It is how we grow that makes all the difference.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

5½ inches (14 cm) diameter and 3½ inches (9 cm) tall.

MATERIALS

40 yards (36.5 meters) super bulky yarn (shown in Wool-Ease Thick & Quick, in color Grey Marble, 1 ball)

Size K-10½ (6.5 mm) crochet hook

Safety pin

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

10 sts and 8 rnds = 4 inches (10 cm) in single crochet (see here).

PATTERN

Foundation ring: Ch 3, join with a sl st in first ch.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, 8 sc around ring. Place safety pin to mark beginning of rnds.

Rnd 2: Sc around.

Rnd 3: 2 sc in each st around—16 sts.

Rnds 4 and 5: Repeat rnds 2 and 3—32 sts.

Rnd 6: Sc around, join with sl st in first st.

Rnd 7: Turn piece with WS facing, ch 1, work hdc around.

Rnd 8: Ch 1, work hdc around. Note: When you reach the end of the round, you will find that starting a new round leaves a gap. No worries—that will be sewn up later.

Repeat rnd 8 until bowl is 3½ inches (9 cm) high. Fasten off, leaving a 10-inch (25.5 cm) long tail.

finishing:

Thread tail in tapestry needle, and weave the tail down to the gap. Stitch it closed and then weave in all ends with tapestry needle.

meditate (KNITTED CUSHION)

For something so simple, meditation seems to take a lot of effort. It’s hard to sit still, and harder still to want to. How do we calm our thoughts? How do we observe without engaging? For me, the answer has always been support. I need to sit comfortably, so that I don’t need to move. I need to practice regularly, so that meditation becomes something I crave, rather than something I resist.

This cushion can provide that support, both literally and figuratively. When it’s completed, it will certainly support your body, but even the act of creating it supports your practice, as it is a kind of meditation. The fabric is worked at a tight gauge, requiring a bit more effort to knit, though it is very simple—just two large rectangles, and a long ribbon binding them together. The rhythm of your needles will unconsciously inform the rhythm of your breath as you knit, and your thoughts will calm and drift by.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

18½ inches (47 cm) long by 15 inches (38 cm) wide by 2 inches (5 cm) thick.

MATERIALS

508 yards (464 meters) Aran weight yarn (shown in Lamb’s Pride Worsted, in color Oatmeal, 3 skeins)

Size US 10½ (6.5 mm) needles, or size needed to obtain gauge

Crochet hook in any size between G-6 (4 mm) and J-10 (6 mm)

Tapestry needle

17-inch (43 cm) long by 15-inch (38 cm) wide by 2-inch (5 cm) thick foam cushion

GAUGE

15 sts and 21 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in St st (see here).

PATTERN

top:

Cast on 70 sts.

Work in St st for 15 inches (38 cm). Bind off all sts.

bottom:

Make bottom same as top.

ribbon:

Cast on 7 sts.

Row 1: (K1, p1) 3 times, k1.

Repeat row 1 until piece measures 67 inches (170 cm).

Bind off all sts in pattern.

finishing:

Weave in all ends with tapestry needle. Block top and bottom pieces to 15 inches (38 cm) by 18½ inches (47 cm), and ribbon to 2 inches (5 cm) by 67 inches (170 cm). See here for blocking instructions.

joining:

Sew the cast-on and bound-off edges of ribbon together to form a long loop, taking care not to twist the piece. Hold top of pillow and ribbon together with right sides of both pieces on the outside, and with wrong sides facing each other and edges even. Join edges using crochet hook to work single crochet along all edges, adjusting as you go so that the ribbon ends meet when you’ve completed the perimeter of the rectangle.

Join bottom of pillow to the opposite edge of the ribbon along 3 sides. Insert cushion and work single crochet to join remaining edges.

Weave in all ends with tapestry needle.

affinity (KNITTED MITTENS)

Sizes: Small (medium, large). Shown in small.

Mittens are warmer than gloves. You may know this, but have you ever thought about why that is? Mittens hold your fingers close, so that each one shares its warmth with the others, and their individual heat is multiplied exponentially as they work together. On their own, your fingers aren’t doing anything any differently—the same amount of blood flows into each of your extremities—but just being together makes all the difference.

These mittens are designed to fit closely and are worked at a very tight gauge—meaning thick yarn and small needles, the better to keep the cold air out and the warm air in.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Hand circumference: 6¾ (8, 8¾) inches (17 [20.5, 22] cm).

Length: 9½ (10¼, 10½) inches (24 [26, 26.5] cm).

MATERIALS

150 (190, 208) yards (137 [173, 190] meters) worsted weight yarn (shown in Wisdom Yarns Poems Silk, in color Wildberry, 2 skeins each size)

Size US 5 (3.75 mm) dpns or 40-inch (100 cm) long circular needle

Size US 6 (4 mm) dpns or 40-inch (100 cm) long circular needle, or size needed to obtain gauge

Stitch markers

Waste yarn

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

20 sts and 28 rnds = 4 inches (10 cm) in St st with larger needles (see here).

PATTERN

cuff:

With smaller needles, cast on 32 (36, 40) sts. Pm and join to work in the rnd, taking care not to twist sts.

Rnd 1: *K2, p2; repeat from * around.

Repeat rnd 1 until cuff measures 3 inches (7.5 cm).

thumb gusset:

Change to larger needles.

Set-up rnd: K15 (17, 19), pm, m1, k2, m1, pm, knit to end—34 (38, 42) sts, with 4 sts between markers.

*Knit 3 rnds even.

Increase rnd: Knit to marker, sl m, m1, knit to marker, m1, sl m, knit to end—2 sts increased between markers.

Repeat from * 4 (5, 5) more times—44 (50, 54) sts, with 14 (16, 16) sts between markers.

palm:

Next rnd: Knit to m, remove marker, place 14 (16, 16) thumb gusset sts on waste yarn, remove marker, cast on 4 (6, 6) sts using backward loop method (see here), then knit to end of rnd—34 (40, 44) sts.

Work even in St st for 4 inches (10 cm), or until mitten is ½ inch (1.5 cm) shorter than desired length.

shape top:

Set-up rnd: K1, ssk, k11 (14, 16), k2tog, pm, k2, ssk, k11 (14, 16), k2tog, k1—4 sts decreased.

Decrease rnd: K1, ssk, knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sl m, k2, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—4 sts decreased.

Repeat decrease rnd 4 (5, 6) more times—10 (12, 12) sts remain.

Close the top using Kitchener st, as follows:

Place the top of the mitten on one needle and the bottom of the mitten on a second needle. Hold these two needles parallel, with their right sides facing out and the yarn at the right end of the back needle.

Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and thread into tapestry needle.

Insert the tapestry needle purlwise through the first stitch on the front needle and pull the yarn through the stitch, but leave the stitch on the front needle. Draw the yarn under the front needle and insert the tapestry needle knitwise through the first stitch on the back needle. Leave this stitch on the back needle, and pull the yarn through both stitches.

*Insert the tapestry needle knitwise through the first stitch on the front needle and slip the stitch off the needle. Insert tapestry needle purlwise through the next stitch on front needle. Leave this stitch on the front needle, and pull yarn through both stitches. Insert tapestry needle purlwise through the first stitch on the back needle and slip the stitch off the needle. Insert tapestry needle knitwise through the next stitch on the back needle. Leave this stitch on the needle, and pull the yarn through both stitches.

Repeat from * until all the stitches have been joined.

thumb:

Place the held 14 (16, 16) thumb sts on larger needles.

With RS facing, join yarn and knit 1 row, pick up and k1 st in the gap between this row and the cast-on sts above thumb opening, 4 (6, 6) sts in cast-on sts, then 1 st in the gap between thumb opening and thumb gusset—20 (24, 24) sts. Pm and join to work in the rnd.

Knit 2 rnds even.

Decrease rnd: *K2, k2tog; repeat from * around—15 (18, 18) sts remain.

Knit 2 rnds even.

Decrease rnd: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—13 (16, 16) sts remain.

Continue even in St st until thumb measures 2½ inches (6.25 cm), or desired length.

Decrease rnd: *K2tog; repeat from * to last 1 (0, 0) st, k1 (0, 0)—7 (8, 8) sts remain.

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread tail in tapestry needle, then pull through the remaining sts and pull tight to close the hole.

Make second mitten, same as the first.

finishing:

Weave in all ends using tapestry needle. Block to measurements (here).

TIPS & MEDITATIONS

IMPROVISING

I am not a perfectionist. Every single thing I’ve made has at least one mistake in it somewhere. Some mistakes have been so big I’ve had to rip back and start over (it’s a part of life), but most of them are still in there. If I get off in the count by a stitch or two, I tend to just increase or decrease to fix it rather than find the mistake and rip back. Sometimes I find I’ve messed up somehow, and I have to kind of fudge things to solve the problem—and so I do.

I encourage you to do the same. We are not seeking perfection here; we are seeking peace. Really, truly, no one will see that mistake except you, and when I spot mine—that place where I purled when I should have knit, or that time I had to knit three together instead of two because I forgot the decrease on the previous row—I just smile. This is what handmade is all about. If we wanted perfection, we would go to a store and buy something made by a machine. Our hiccups and imperfections are beautiful.

I think patterns are amazing. They are a wonderful way to learn, and they tend to produce better results than winging it—at first, anyway. But if you can get comfortable with your mistakes (and OK with the idea of some trial and error), leave the pattern behind and let your creativity flow. Find a new way to make a flower, use a different stitch pattern, or add stripes—or start from scratch and invent something new. If it doesn’t work out at first, so what? Remember, it’s the journey that matters, not the destination.

sagacity (CROCHETED GRANNY SQUARE BLANKET)

The term “Granny Square” first entered the public lexicon around the 1930s, during the Depression, when every scrap of yarn was saved, and those who couldn’t work—the grannies—would use those scraps to make blankets. There is a deep history here of thriftiness and making something out of almost nothing.

Traditional Granny Squares start with a ring, into which twelve double crochets are worked, turning that circle into a square, which continues to grow from there. But there could be no more perfect metaphor for “freedom within the form” than the Granny Square—changing colors, changing stitches, changing size, even changing shapes will create something entirely new and complex from such simple and humble beginnings.

As you work each Granny Square, consider what it will be—a potholder? A shawl? An afghan (as we’ve made here)? How will you grow each small piece to become a part of something larger?

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Approximately 50 inches (127 cm) long and 50 inches (127 cm) wide.

MATERIALS

2,047 yards (1,872 meters) worsted weight yarn (shown using Cascade 220 Superwash, in colors Purple Sage [C1], 635 yards (580 meters); Smoke Blue [C2], 510 yards (466 meters); Aran [C3], 506 yards (463 meters); and Space Needle [C4], 396 yards (362 meters)

Size J-9 (5.5 mm) crochet hook

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

Each square = 5½ inches (14 cm) by 5½ inches (14 cm) (see here).

PATTERN

granny square:

Foundation ring: Ch 4, join with a sl st in the first ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in ring, *ch 3, 3 dc in ring; repeat from * 3 more times, ch 3, join with a sl st in top of beginning ch.

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn work, (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in same corner as beginning ch, *ch 1, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in ch-3 sp; repeat from * 2 more times, ch 1, join with a sl st in top of beginning ch.

Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn work, 2 dc in same ch-1 sp as beginning ch, *ch 1, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in ch-3 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in ch-1 sp; repeat from * 2 more times, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in ch-3 sp, ch 1, join with a sl st in top of beginning ch.

Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn work, 2 dc in same ch-1 sp as beginning ch, *ch 1, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in ch-3 sp, (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 space) twice; repeat from * 2 more times, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in ch-3 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, join with a sl st in top of beginning ch. Fasten off.

blanket:

Weaving in ends as your work, make 81 squares, as follows:

8 solid-color squares in each of the 4 colors.

1 multicolored square: Rnd 1 with C3, rnd 2 with C1, rnd 3 with C2, and rnd 4 with C4.

8 multicolored squares: Rnd 1 with C1, rnd 2 with C2, rnd 3 with C4, and rnd 4 with C3.

16 multicolored squares: Rnd 1 with C2, rnd 2 with C4, rnd 3 with C3, and rnd 4 with C1.

24 multicolored squares: Rnd 1 with C4, rnd 2 with C3, rnd 3 with C1, and rnd 4 with C2.

joining the squares:

Lay out the squares in 9 rows of 9 squares, arranging the colors as desired. Join each row of squares beginning with the bottom row. Hold 2 squares with the WS facing each other, and use C1 to join the squares by working sc through both squares, making sure there are 2 chain sts at each end of the seam; there is a chain stitch seam on the RS. Continue across the row, joining squares in the order they were laid out, then join the squares of the next row.

joining the rows:

Join the rows of squares in the same manner as the squares. When you reach a seam in the rows, insert your hook in the last ch st of the square you’re ending, yarn over and pull through a loop (2 loops on hook), insert hook in the first ch st of the next square, yarn over and pull through a loop, then pull this loop through the 2 loops on the hook (1 loop on hook).

border:

With RS facing, ch 1 and work a rnd of sc around the outside edges, working 3 sc in each corner, then join with a sl st in the first st. Fasten off.

finishing:

Weave in remaining ends with tapestry needle. Block to finished measurements according to the instructions on here.

infinite (KNITTED COWL)

A Möbius strip is just a loop with a twist in it, but that twist means that it cannot ever be laid flat. If an ant were to walk along the edge of your finished cowl, it would walk around the entire piece, top and bottom, and end up right back where it started.

A Möbius strip is “non-orientable,” which means that our ant would never know where it was. Is it on top? Is it on the bottom? Are they the same thing?

Life can feel non-orientable, as we find ourselves lost or right back where we started without even knowing how we got there. But there’s a magic in that, a surprise and delight in the journey, with its mysterious loops and twists and seemingly wrong turns that aren’t really wrong at all—they’re leading us exactly where we are headed, whether we know it or not.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

29 inches (73.5 cm) circumference and 6 inches (15 cm) tall.

MATERIALS

150 yards (137 meters) DK weight yarn (shown in The Fibre Company Acadia, in color Dusk, 2 hanks)

Size US 6 (4 mm) 24-inch (60 cm) long circular needle, or size to obtain gauge

Stitch marker

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

22 sts and 34 rnds = 4 inches (10 cm) in Garter st (see here).

PATTERN

Cast on 160 sts. Pm and join in the rnd, being careful to make sure there is a twist in the sts.

Rnd 1: Knit.

Rnd 2: Purl.

Repeat rnds 1 and 2 until piece measures 6 inches (15 cm), ending with a purl rnd.

Bind off all sts knitwise, using an even tension to match the cast-on edge.

finishing:

Weave in all ends with tapestry needle.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

In case anyone is wondering, writing a book is great for building a gratitude practice.

Thank you Kristen Green Wiewora for the best unexpected phone call I’ve ever had. Thank you Shannon Connors for being the promptest, chillest, reasonablest editor ever. Anytime you need more puns, just let me know. Thank you Amy Hughes and Therese Chynoweth for keeping me honest, and making sure the math adds up—Clint Barton has nothing on you. Thank you Susan Van Horn for your gorgeous and thoughtful design, Steve Legato for your beautiful photographs, and Trina Dalziel for your lovely artwork. You guys make it all look so pretty! Thank you Kristin Kiser for championing the book and getting everyone so excited, including me!

Thank you Rachel Mehl for handling things when I was too overwhelmed to even look at them, thank you Chandika Devi for picking up the slack and putting up with a very late birthday shawl, and thank you Kelly Notaras for helping me become someone who really ought to write this book.

Thank you mom, for teaching me how to crochet, and thank you Grandma for the hooks. They’re the only ones I use.

Thank you Anna Noyes for construction-brainstorming, inspiration, willingness to crochet things I don’t want to/don’t have time for (pretty much the same thing), and general enthusiasm for all the things.

Thank you Jen Hughes and the ladies and gentleman of Boyd McGuinness. Thank you to the slide at Boyd McGuinness for not injuring my child while I just sat there knitting.

Thank you child, for not getting injured, or doing anything but be the sweetest and most patient girl ever. Thank you for understanding that I can do the pony voices while I’m working, but I can’t actually hold the ponies, and for carrying that understanding through to so many other circumstances. You are still waiting for your crocheted octopus, aren’t you? I promise it will come soon.

Thank you Dave for dealing the cards with every hand, for letting me pick the show (most of the time), for the hand-massages and the Epsom salts, for telling me not to panic, for not minding when the knitting is everywhere, and for being my place of calm.

STITCH DICTIONARY

Chain: Yarn over the hook and draw its loop through the loop on your hook.

Double Crochet: Yarn over the hook (2 loops on hook). Insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over, and draw the yarn through the stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw the yarn through the first 2 loops on the hook (2 loops remain on hook). Yarn over again and draw the yarn through the remaining loops on the hook (1 loop remains on hook).

Garter Stitch: Worked back and forth, knit every row. Worked in the round, *knit 1 round, purl 1 round; repeat from *.

Half Double Crochet: Yarn over the hook (2 loops on hook). Insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over the hook, and draw the yarn through the stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn over again and draw the yarn through all 3 loops on the hook (1 loop remains on hook).

Knit: Insert the right needle into the next stitch on the left needle from front to back. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the stitch on the left needle, creating a new stitch, and slip the old stitch off the left needle.

Knit Two Together: Insert the right needle into the first two stitches on the left needle from front to back. Yarn over and pull the yarn through both stitches on the left needle, creating a new stitch, and slip the 2 old stitches off the left needle. One stitch decreased.

Make One: Insert your left needle from front to back under the strand between the last stitch on your right needle and the next stitch on your left needle. Knit into the back of the loop. One stitch increased.

Make One Purlwise: Insert your left needle from back to front under the strand between the last stitch on your right needle and the next stitch on your left needle. Purl into the front of the loop. One stitch increased.

Place Marker: Place a stitch marker on your right needle.

Purl: Insert the right needle into the next stitch on the left needle from back to front. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the stitch on the left needle, creating a new stitch, and slip the old stitch off the left needle.

Single Crochet: Insert hook into the next stitch. Yarn over the hook and draw the yarn through the stitch (2 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw the yarn through both loops on the hook (1 loop on hook).

Single Crochet Two Together: Insert the hook into the next stitch. Yarn over the hook and draw the yarn through the stitch (2 loops on hook). Insert the hook into the next stitch. Yarn over and draw the yarn through the stitch (3 loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw the yarn through all 3 loops on the hook (1 loop remains on hook). One stitch decreased.

Slip Marker: Move the marker from the left needle to the right needle.

Slip, Slip, Knit: Slip the next two stitches knitwise, one at a time, to the right needle. Insert the tip of the left needle into the fronts of both slipped stitches, and knit them together. One stitch decreased.

Slip Stitch: Insert hook into the next stitch. Yarn over the hook and draw the yarn through the stitch and the loop on the hook (1 loop on hook).

Stockinette Stitch: Worked back and forth, knit the right-side rows and purl the wrong-side rows. Worked in the round, knit every round.

Triple (Treble) Crochet: Yarn over the hook twice (3 loops on hook). Insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over and draw the yarn through the stitch (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw the yarn through the first 2 loops (3 loops remain on hook). Yarn over and draw the yarn through the next 2 loops (2 loops remain on hook). Yarn over again and draw the yarn through the last 2 loops on hook (1 loop remains on hook).

Yarn Over: Wrap the yarn around the hook or needle. Noun: yarnover.

LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS

C

color

CC

contrast color

ch

chain

ch-sp

chain-space

cm

centimeter(s)

dc

double crochet

dpn(s)

double-pointed needle(s)

hdc

half double crochet

k

knit

k2tog

knit two together

MC

main color

mm

millimeter(s)

m1

make one

m1p

make one purlwise

p

purl

pm

place marker

rnd(s)

round(s)

RS

right side(s)

sc

single crochet

sc2tog

single crochet two together

sl m

slip marker

sl st

slip stitch

sp

space(s)

ssk

slip, slip, knit

st(s)

stitch(es)

St st

Stockinette stitch

tr

triple (treble) crochet

WS

wrong side(s)

yo

yarn over

DIAGRAMS

mesmer vest schematic

Mesmer appears on here.

reach cardigan schematic

Reach appears on here.

sarvangasana shrug schematic

Sarvangasana appears on here.

sarvangasana shrug assembly

Fold along fold line, matching A1 to A2, and B1 to B2 on both side edges.

Sew side edges from A to B for side seam, leaving edges open from B to fold line.

RESOURCES

tutorials

Most of the techniques used in this book are beginner-friendly, and I’ve tried to be as descriptive as possible, but sometimes a little more is needed! These websites have excellent tutorials, and I highly recommend them.

knitty.com

Knitty Magazine offers free patterns and amazing tutorials. I still learn so much from them!

www.debajo-un-boton.com

Run by my friend Ana Sancho Rumeo, this gorgeous blog has tips, techniques, tutorials, and patterns, and they’re in English as well as Spanish.

crochetconcupiscence.com

This website has a great collection of crochet tutorials, and it has a number of free patterns as well. And check out the mandalas!

ravelry.com

For just all-around good information, pattern access, and community, there is nothing like Ravelry. I pretty much live there.

yarn

If you’re looking to use some of the same yarns I used in the projects on these pages, I always recommend visiting your local yarn store. Even if your shop doesn’t have exactly the same ones, the staff will be able to show you something similar. But if you’re more of an online shopper, check these out.

yarn.com

This website has an amazing collection and offers deep discounts. You can find just about anything there.

etsy.com

Etsy is home to some amazing spinners and dyers, some of whom can sell you a one-of-a-kind, handcrafted skein of yarn dyed to order.

amazon.com/handmade

Much like Etsy, Amazon’s Handmade marketplace gives knitters and crocheters a wonderful opportunity to purchase yarns crafted with care by skilled makers.

INDEX

A

Abbreviations, 107

Adho mukha, 10–12

Affinity, 93–96

Afghan, 98–101

Asana, 27

B

Backward loop, 20

Bag, crocheted, 72–74

Basket, crocheted, 88–89

Binding off methods, 21

Blanket, crocheted, 98–101

Blanket, knitted, 31–33

Blocking tips, 45

Boot cuffs, crocheted, 46–47

Bracelet, crocheted, 66–67

C

Cardigan, knitted, 75–79, 109

Carry bag, crocheted, 72–74

Casting on, 20–21

Chain definition, 104

Chaining tip, 20

Chakras

crown chakra, 37

heart chakra, 13

root chakra, 31

sacral chakra, 31

solar plexus chakra, 38

throat chakra, 22

Clarity, 22, 83

Color, 6, 9–39

Comfort, 31

Communication, 22

Container, 88–89

Cowl, crocheted, 22–23

Cowl, knitted, 102–103

Creativity, 6, 13, 51, 91, 97

Crochet definition, 104

Crocheted projects

afghan, 98–101

bag, 72–74

basket, 88–89

blanket, 98–101

boot cuffs, 46–47

bracelet, 66–67

cowl, 22–23

eye pillow, 57–59

flowers, 24–26

Granny Square blanket, 98–101

hat, 80–82

headband, 36–37

necklace, 13–15

scarf, 10–12

shoulder bag, 72–74

shrug, 83–86, 110–111

soap holder, 42–44

Crocheting benefits, 6

Crocheting tips, 20–21, 34–35

Crown chakra, 37

Cushion, knitted, 90–92

D

Diagrams, 108–111

Double crochet, 104

E

Earth laughs, 24–26

Ease, 51–53

Eye pillow, crocheted, 57–59

F

Faire, 80–82

Fingerless gloves, knitted, 63–65

Finishing tips, 45

Flexibility, 67, 73

Flowers, crocheted, 24–26

Freedom, 99

G

Garter stitch, 104

Gauge tips, 68

Gleam, 66–67

Gloves, knitted fingerless, 63–65

Granny Squares, crocheted, 98–101

Grounded, staying, 31, 51

Growth, 88

H

Half double crochet, 104

Handspun yarn, 54

Hat, crocheted, 80–82

Hat, knitted, 48–50, 60–62

Headband, crocheted, 36–37

Healing, 13

Heart chakra, 13

I

Improvising, 97

Infinite, 102–103

Inspiration, 13, 51

J

Joy, 25, 57, 87, 102

K

Knit definition, 104

Knit two together, 21, 104

Knitted projects

blanket, 31–33

cardigan, 75–79, 109

cowl, 102–103

cushion, 90–92

gloves, 63–65

hats, 48–50, 60–62

lap blanket, 31–33

mittens, 93–96

mug cozy, 38–39

shawl, 54–56

socks, 27–30

sweater, 75–79, 109

vest, 16–19, 108

washcloths, 51–53

Knitting benefits, 6

Knitting tips, 20–21, 34–35

L

Lap blanket, knitted, 31–33

Leafly, 13–15

Leisure, 57–59

Long-tail tip, 20

Love, 37

M

Magic, 37, 102

Magic loop, 35

Make one definition, 104

Make one purlwise, 104

Manipura, 38–39

Meditation, 10, 90–92

Mental breaks, 83

Mesmer, 16–19, 108

Mittens, knitted, 93–96

Möbius strip, 102

Morris, William, 6

Mug cozy, knitted, 38–39

Muladhara, 31

N

Necklace, crocheted, 13–15

Noyes, Anna, 13

P

Passion, 31

Peace, 6, 22, 38, 91, 97

Perspective shift, 46–47, 83

Pillow, crocheted, 57–59

Pisces, 60–62

Place marker, 104

Portland, 63–65

Power, 38

Purl definition, 104

R

Reach, 75–79, 109

Reclaim, 42–44

Relationships, 13

Religion, 37

Resources, 112

Rhythm, 6, 91

Round, working in, 34–35

Rustica, 54–56

S

Sacral chakra, 31

Sagacity, 98–101

Sahasrara, 36–37

Sarvangasana, 83–86

Scarf, crocheted, 10–12

Self-care, 43, 57

Self-confidence, 38

Self-indulgence, 57

Shawl, knitted, 54–56

Shoulder bag, crocheted, 72–74

Shrug, crocheted, 83–86, 110–111

Simplicity, 48–49, 51, 99

Single crochet, 105

Single crochet two together, 105

Slip, slip, knit, 105

Slip marker, 105

Slip stitch, 105

Slipknot, 20

Soap holder, crocheted, 42–44

Socks, knitted, 27–30

Solar plexus chakra, 38

Spirituality, 37

Stimulation, 31

Stitch dictionary, 104–105

Stockinette stitch, 68, 105

Structure, 6, 71–103

Support, 91

Svadhisthana, 31–33

Sweater, knitted, 75–79, 109

T

Texture, 6, 41–70

Throat chakra, 22

Tips

backward loop, 20

binding off, 21

blocking, 45

casting on, 20–21

chaining, 20

choosing yarn, 48, 54, 87

crocheting, 20–21, 34

finishing, 45

gauge, 68

improvising, 97

knitting, 20–21, 34–35

long-tail, 20

slipknot, 20

washing, 45

working in round, 34–35

yarn over, 20

Tranquility, 22

Triple crochet, 105

Tutorials, 112

V

Vest, knitted, 16–19, 108

Vishuddha, 22–23

W

Warmth, 31, 47, 60, 93

Washcloths, knitted, 51–53

Washing tips, 45

Y

Yarn

choosing, 48, 54, 87

finishing tips, 45

handspun yarn, 54

portability of, 6

resources for, 112

washing tips, 45

Yarn over, 20, 105

Yoga, 10, 27–28, 73, 83